PARADISE ON OUR DOORSTEP
It’s one of the most beautiful spots one could visit, writes Bev Mortimer
NESTLED in the Indian Ocean lies a rare little treasure, Rodrigues
Island, a place where time seems to stand still, where modern day stresses fade away.
This island, boasting an authentic culture is one of the rarest and most beautiful spots one could visit. Off the beaten track, it is an idyllic place, enticing with its pristine white beaches, lagoons in myriad green or blue shades and breathtaking, unspoiled scenery.
It was named after a Portuguese ship captain, Diego Rodriguez, discovered it in 1528. Since then this little jewel has evolved into a unique destination, with its own blend of customs and early colonial influences, most unlike its more worldly and modern neighbour, Mauritius, the judicial capital. It is 650kms off Mauritius and is locally known as Île de Rodrigues, since French and creole predominate more than the official, English.
This island’s remoteness has kept it untarnished by glitz and commercial trappings, making it so completely different from more modern destinations. This is part of its unique charm.
The islanders, aka Rodriguans, are religious, warm and friendly, enjoying a tranquil, laid-back lifestyle, free of the severe crimes that plague many other countries.
The many hills are dotted with pastel-coloured houses and there are some excellent places to stay, including prestigious, colonial-style hotels, such as the fabulous Cotton Bay Hotel (arguably the best), the prestigious Marouk Ebony Hotel and the most colonial, the lovely Cocotiers Hotel. All boast inviting swimming pools, with views of palm-dotted beaches and serene coral lagoons.
I stayed at La Case Créole B&B in Anse aux Anglais. The self-catering apartment is in walking distance to the beach and close to a range of quaint shops, “auberges”, lodges and a marvellous shop that sells shells and amazing gifts.
Anse aux Anglais (English Bay) was named after British troops first landed there. An interesting fact is the UK’S Prince William spent time working on a conservation project in 2000 in this suburb, locals say. He dined frequently at one of the renowned restaurants, the Blue Marlin, among others. The prince stayed in a creole villa, hired a motorbike to get from A to B, and enjoyed snorkelling in the lagoons.
His sojourn drew more tourists to the island, as will the 250 athletes who recently participated in the Expedition Africa Race on the island. They raved about the place and praised the helpful Rodriguans, many saying they would definitely be back for a repeat visit.
Near Anse aux Anglais, via several narrow, steep, hair-pin bend roads with few barriers, are several other villages, some with sandy beaches, others volcanic, as well as lush farmlands and burgeoning foliage.
One often gets the feeling of being on an almost deserted isle.
Scooters are popular forms of transport though most families hire vehicles, with rentals averaging R2 500 per day. Speed limits are a sedate 40kph to 50kph and, like South Africa, they drive on the left.
For those wishing to sightsee, a day trip around the island ranges from R1 500 upwards for a full island tour, excluding excursions by boat to various outlying islands.
There is a wide variety of delicious island food available, enough to tempt every palate – from local delicacies at small beachfront places, like Sunset Beach Café, run by Harry Luchessi, to the grand fare and overflowing buffets at top hotels.
The cuisine is often rich and spicy but those who prefer something milder can choose many non-piquant dishes of chicken, pork or fresh fish.
There are several mostly uninhabited islets one can visit by boat; others are close enough to reach by wading through the lagoons at low tide. One favourite is Île aux Cocos (Coconut Island), with only sandy beaches and so many birds, and another is Île de Chats, named after the large number of cats there.
Sport and adventure travellers will love activities such as kitesurfing, regattas, paddling, canoeing, boating, sailing, swimming, standup paddling, snorkelling, via ferrata (climbing route) and zip-lining. Nature lovers will favourite its islets and lagoons teeming with birds, plants and some animal life.
In the evenings, musicians play European melodies or African rhythms, accompanied by graceful dancers in wide skirts, who twirl around in sega tambour folk dances.
And last, most dream of islands with hidden treasures… Rodrigues apparently does have treasure on it somewhere, locals insist.
A closely-guarded secret, until recently, was the discovery by two explorers, in March 2019, of a treasure chest in an island cave, which was touted as being a pirate’s plunder.