‘The Bear’ whets the appetite with surreal glimpse into chaos of running a restaurant
AT THE moment, there is a debate raging about why The Bear made the cut for several Primetime Emmy nominations while other obvious contenders didn’t make the list.
But that is not the point of this story.
I’ve stumbled across chatter around The Bear for a while now. But since it is in the eye of the storm with its Emmy nods, I thought I should, as any TV critic worth their weight in salt would do, check it out.
The show is frenetic, dysfunctional and messy. But I lapped up every minute of it and it is not because I’m a sucker for punishment.
I was fascinated by the fly-on-thewall take on a failing restaurant being rescued, partly out of obligation and partly out of passion.
I had to watch season one for context. So if you haven’t watched it yet, stop reading now.
The dramedy is set at a family-run fast-food spot called The Beef in Chicago. It is well-known for its sandwiches and, according to Richard “Richie” Jerimovich (Ebon Mossbachrach), its de-factor manager, its famous Italian spaghetti dish.
It opens with Carmen “Carmy” Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White), who has earned his culinary stripes at some of the best restaurants in the world, returning home after the suicide of his brother Michael “Mikey” Berzatto.
They two grew up inseparable but grew apart as adults so Carmy doesn’t take the news of Mikey’s passing well.
Filled with regret and anger, Carmy takes over the kitchen to help turn the restaurant’s fortune around.
But his attempt is stymied by the rebellious previous staff who, although they are inexperienced, remain loyal to their now late boss. And Richie’s meddling doesn’t help matters any.
Marcos Brooks (Lionel Boyce) is a teddy bear despite his imposing stature and demeanour. His passion for baking is unmistakable as he works hard to elevate his craft.
Tina Marrero (Liza Colón-zayas) digs her heels in as a cook with many years under her belt. Change isn’t something she welcomes and hides behind the linguistic barriers of her cultural background when she is avoiding conflict.
Ebraheim (Edwin Lee Gibson), a veteran cook, is the only one who gets any leeway or respect from Tina.
Other colourful characters in the show include Manny (Richard Esteras) and Angel (José Cervantes), who help with the washing up and odd jobs,
and Neil Fak (Matty Matheson), the restaurant's resident handyman.
Supporting characters include Jimmy “Cicero” Kalinowski (Jon Bernthal), an uncle to the Berzatto siblings, including sister Natalie (Abby Elliott), aka Sugar.
Jimmy is known for his shady dealings but they turn a blind eye.
The first season centred on Carmy finding a way to keep the restaurant afloat, implement some structure to the work assignments with the help of newly-appointed sous chef Sydney Adamu (Ayo Edebiri) and elevate the menu.
But he finds himself working against the tide of anarchy from his
fellow “chefs” and his only ally is Sydney, well, that is, until he pushes her too far and she quits.
The finale is a silver lining, offering everyone a chance for a change for the better.
And that is where the second instalment picks up from. The windfall Carmy and the team stumble upon means they can give the restaurant a much-needed facelift and make it the trendy go-to spot in town.
Once again, the challenges abound. The renovations hit a few costly stumbling blocks. Natalie plays a more integral role in the business this time around. And Carmy gets to take a break from work and group counselling when he bumps into his childhood crush Claire (Molly Gordon) and sparks start flying.
While the restaurant is closed, Tina, Ebraheim and Marcos are sent on courses to help them hone their craft.
Season two also introduces a few blasts from the past characters that throw a spanner in the works.
The Bear invites streamers into the inner sanctum of a busy kitchen. Unlike the calmer, structured atmosphere of Masterchef, Chopped or Guy’s Grocery Games, this one is tense as personalities clash and no one is spared from being chopped down to size or from being pranked when their stress level is through the roof.
White is mesmerising as he channels the emotional baggage of a brother looking for closure with that of a chef looking to prove himself and save the family business.
His angst is unmistakable. And he stirs up emotions with his frequent bouts of frustration and desperation.
Moss-bachrach is compelling as the antagonist and foil. He comes across as problematic and aggressive but, deep down, he is juggling his own demons and his intentions, while misunderstood, are genuine.
I absolutely loved watching Edebiri. She comes into the storyline as the calm in a toxic storm. She ends up getting caught in its crosshairs but bounces back.
She exemplifies every black woman who is exceptionally talented but overshadowed and under-appreciated. But she isn’t about getting drowned out by the politics of it all.
She wants to make a change and make a name for herself and is calculated enough to know when it is the right time to rock the boat, so to speak.
The Bear claws its way into favour with a storyline amplified by its layered storytelling, raw emotions, passion, loyalty and, subconsciously, an inherent need for forgiveness, love and acceptance.
As a viewer, your nerves will be shot by the pace and fights, but they will be calmed by the promise of success and a profound sense of camaraderie.
Talk about having all the right ingredients for a relatable, albeit outof-the-box, dramedy.
seasons 1 and 2, is streaming on Disney+.