Sunday Tribune

Africa Month: These are the chefs who are cooking up a storm across the continent

- LUTHO PASIYA lutho.pasiya@inl.co.za

AFRICAN cuisine is often made up of a complex array of influences, ingredient­s and inspiratio­ns. But, as with much of history, the contributi­ons of some groups are under-appreciate­d or overlooked.

But across the continent, from South Africa and Kenya to Congo, down to Zambia, profession­al chefs are plating Africa’s traditiona­l flavours at home and on the internatio­nal table.

In honour of Africa Month, which is marked every May, we look at some of the chefs who are shaping the narrative of African cuisine.

Selassie Atadika

Atadika is a culinary educator and food systems advocate who demystifie­s African cuisine and the value it offers to the global community.

From a young age, Atadika could be found in the kitchen not too far from her mother’s apron strings. This culinary interest, from her Ghanaian roots, has evolved through time spent and meals sampled in the US, Europe and countless countries in all the corners of Africa.

After years of self-teaching in the culinary arts, she completed course work at the prestigiou­s Culinary Institute of America.

A founding member of Trio Toque, the first nomadic restaurant in Dakar, Senegal, Atadika has brought her innovative approaches to African cuisine back home to Ghana to introduce them through Midunu, a nomadic dining concept featuring what she calls “New African Cuisine”.

Elisha Madzivadon­do

Madzivadon­do prides himself on providing people with healthy food. The Zimbabwean came to South Africa years ago when there was political unrest in his country.

As the founder of Sunshine Food Sprouting Co, Madzivadon­do has been a vegan since childhood. Having relocated to South Africa and working his way from a guest house butler to a cook, he has establishe­d a business that echoes his healthy eating habits.

With a small eatery in Sea Point, Cape Town and stands at weekend markets, Sunshine Food Co is a big hit on the Mother City food scene and regulars rate his vegan burgers as among the best in town.

Kobus van der Merwe

Van der Merwe is one of South Africa’s most treasured culinary gems.

With inspiratio­nal dishes like crispy baked kiesieblaa­r, the leaf of the widespread malva (pelargoniu­m) plant and wild sage-smoked angelfish, the chef has become renowned for his culinary skills.

Van der Merwe’s high standards have set a new standard in the multiaward-winning restaurant Wolfgat, that he owns.

Born in the Kalahari, his story is an inspiring one of someone who fought against all odds to follow his passion of becoming a profession­al chef and restaurate­ur.

Van der Merwe’s culinary career started with a bit of a detour, as he first freelanced as a journalist and then worked in digital media for a few years.

He arrived in Paternoste­r in the Western Cape in 2009 for a gap year and now runs one of the best restaurant­s in the world.

Van der Merwe did not begin to cook seriously until he was 30. He forages every day for ingredient­s on the wild Atlantic shore of the Western Cape near his restaurant, where he also makes his own bread and butter.

Wolfgat opened its doors in September 2016. The restaurant is famous for using locally sourced ingredient­s.

Van der Merwe’s passion for food and the way he prepares it, plus the service and exclusivit­y, has made it a magnet for food lovers.

Raphael King’ori

Born in Kenya, King’ori grew up fascinated by how simple ingredient­s turned into great meals in his mother’s kitchen.

After high school, he signed up at the renowned Kenya Utalii College in Nairobi and interned at the Carnivore Restaurant in Kenya. From there, he never looked back.

He loves to share knowledge on all matters of food. This led him to publish recipes on social media, through the now popular step-by-step images and videos on recipes.

He believes that by developing recipes that are easily incorporat­ed into

Kenyan and African households, it increases utility and becomes organic.

Mokgadi Itsweng

Raised in Mamelodi in Pretoria, Itsweng studied law and then advertisin­g. But it was while working a catering job, as a side hustle, that she realised her true passion.

Following her dreams, Itsweng packed her bags and escaped to New York City, where she worked at the legendary South African restaurant Madiba, in Brooklyn, and studied at Peter Kump’s cooking school.

She returned to Johannesbu­rg in 2001 and cut her teeth as a chef, ultimately opening her own restaurant, Lotsha Kitchen and Cocktails, four years later.

Itsweng has a cookbook called Veggielici­ous in which she has reworked South African recipes with plantforwa­rd passion. She describes the cookbook as a “plant-based offering from the garden of my dreams”.

As a chef, Itsweng is determined to disprove the myth that healthy food is expensive, while showcasing indigenous South African ingredient­s.

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