DAY ONE

Sunday Tribune - - TRAVEL -

Morn­ing

FEW self-re­spect­ing lo­cals will wait un­til lunchtime be­fore eat­ing their sec­ond meal of the day. Trzes­niewski (trzes­niewski.at) is tech­ni­cally a sand­wich shop but re­ally it’s an emer­gency ser­vice for un­for­tu­nate Vi­en­nese caught be­tween main meals. The ear­li­est sur­viv­ing out­let “on Dorotheer­gasse in the In­ner Stadt, the area bounded by the grand boule­vards of the 19th Cen­tury Ringstrasse and the Danube Canal” has changed lit­tle since it opened in 1904. The house spe­cial has stayed pretty much the same, too: a slice of dark rye bread spread with rich egg and may­on­naise, and chased down with small glass of beer called a pfiff.

One pfiff is enough as it’s time to catch a U-bahn sub­way train to Klimt Villa (klimtvilla.at) in the 13th District sub­urbs. Buy a 48-hour travel card (vi­en­na­pass.com) and you’ll get un­lim­ited pub­lic trans­port jour­neys and dis­counts or free en­try at most mu­se­ums.

The Un­ter St Veit sta­tion is just 30 me­tres from the villa and you can walk in the gar­den where Klimt’s naked mod­els out­raged the neigh­bours, and wan­der through the stu­dio. There are re­pro­duc­tions of his paint­ings and the Ja­pa­nese prints that in­spired mas­ter­pieces such as Death and Life.

You can see the orig­i­nal at the Leopold Mu­seum (leopold mu­seum. org/en) in the os­ten­ta­tiously grand Mu­seum Quar­ter. Vienna has many Haps­burg palaces, but this huge com­plex is ac­tu­ally the for­mer im­pe­rial sta­bles. Once oc­cu­pied by Napoleon’s troops, it is now a lively cul­tural cen­tre with some great cafes, bars and restau­rants.

Af­ter­noon

GO for lunch at Glacis Beisl (glacis­beisl.at/info/). Hid­den away at the back of the Mu­seum Quar­ter, this tra­di­tional Vi­en­nese cafe serves big por­tions of warm­ing Aus­trian grub, such as Gram­mel­kn­odel auf Ga­belkrut (dumplings filled with pork crack­ling, served with steamed cab­bage) and plate-sized Vi­en­nese schnitzel.

With the day draw­ing to a close, you can stay where you are, as the cafe ter­race is fes­tooned with lights and there is a gluh­wein stall. Al­ter­na­tively, en­joy a brisk walk through the Volks­garten, a world her­itage-listed pub­lic park, and back to the In­ner Stadt and the Freyung Christ­mas Mar­ket, the place to buy can­dles and or­ganic farm prod­ucts.

The re­ally big mar­ket is on Rathaus­platz, be­tween the Burgth­e­ater and the loom­ing neo-gothic city hall. From Novem­ber, Rathaus­platz has a huge ice rink and more than

150 stalls that sell drinks and food from dif­fer­ent re­gions, al­though I saved my­self for din­ner at Vestibul (vestibuel.at) in the Burgth­e­ater.

Klimt painted the­atre’s ceil­ings be­tween 1886 and 1888 with scenes from plays that in­clude Romeo and Juliet, and was awarded a medal for his work by the em­peror.

The food is good too: by Vi­en­nese stan­dards, “sad­dle of pigling” is dainty fare, though else­where the menu trans­la­tions can be a lit­tle

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