Local hangouts in Athens

Travellers looking for a sense of where locals in Athens hang out should head to Kifissia, a leafy, upscale suburb north of the city centre. While home-grown stores have long been a trademark here, eateries have been scarce. In recent years, that’s changed as it’s become easier to obtain restaurant licenses. Now, the neighbourhood includes an enticing mix of stores and restaurants – both of which appeal to Athenians with good taste in fashion and food.

AMARYLLIS CAFE

Athenians come in the morning to get their fix of Greek coffee, which is traditionally served black and so strong that a glass of water accompanies each cup to help cleanse the palate. They’re here again midday for sandwiches, salads and desserts like the home-made chocolate cake with pieces of crushed biscuits. This local favourite also features a menu of Greek wines, and a glass while sitting alfresco is a pleasurable way to pass the time.

VARSOS

This airy family-run bakery, dating to the late 19th century, is a wonderland for Greek food souvenirs. Bags of pistachios and almonds, jars of honeys and jams (the sour cherry is a best-seller) and packets of dried figs beckon, but the most tempting purchase may be an assortment of the 40 types of cookies, baked in-house daily. The butter and cinnamon varieties are house specialties.

TRIA

The country’s artisans, who painstakingly produce handmade goods, are an endangered breed because of an increasing reliance on machine-made products. This brand, set up in a by-appointment-only showroom, aims to preserve their craft. Shoppers will find stylish shawls, handbags and clothing from different parts of the country, such as colourful scarves made by girls in a weaving school in northern Greece.

MAYA ZOULOVITS

Named after the Athenian jewellery designer, who is usually on hand to greet customers, this boutique sells her jewellery, which has a simple, clean aesthetic. Zoulovits crafts her pieces by hand in a small atelier behind the retail area and favours silver and 14-karat gold; best-sellers are her triangle-shaped necklaces and wax thread bracelets adorned with tiny charms, such as leaves and stars.

THE TWENTY ONE RESTAURANT & BAR

This spot, with both indoor and alfresco seating and contemporary décor, is a mainstay destination for the creative set. Don’t let the setting distract from the tasty food; dishes include gnocchi with goat-cheese cream and figs, Greek salad and spicy king crab with yuzu. For those who imbibe, the creative cocktails are a must, like Mexican Breath, a mix of tequila with green jalapeños, avocado and green apple purée, coriander and agave nectar.