Luxury in the Overberg
‘GLAMPING’ AT ITS MOST – IN TENTS
Ihave seldom, in all my years of travelling, made such an inauspicious arrival at a destination. Things had been going so well: by default rather than design, I found myself leading a small flotilla of vehicles northwards from Bot River in the Western Cape’s Overberg region… them on four wheels, me on two. I’d shepherded my flock safely along 17km of the (gravel but very well graded) Van der Stel’s Pass road to the gates of Porcupine Hills Guest Farm and then a further three up a very tricky two-track farm lane into the mountains.
The end of the road was where, as old folk say, things went tits up.
I parked where indicated and was climbing off – one foot on the ground, the other across the saddle – when the bike’s sidestand disappeared into the earth, and both motorcycle and I went sprawling. I didn’t know it at the time but I broke two ribs in the process.
The dust was still billowing when camp manager Nzamo Vundle was at my side, expressing concern, helping me to my feet and righting the bike on firmer ground.
More importantly, he pointed me in the direction of the so-called mess tent.
Feeling more discomfited than sore, I ignored the non-alcoholic welcome drink and headed for the bar. Armed with a very stiff drink, I took stock.
A tented camp… nothing new there, nor the fact the tents were undeniably posh (actually, tents are tents but it’s the furnishings that elevate the camping experience to “glamping”). What sets this luxe operation apart, say owners Samara Stern and Dez Lundy of Canvas Collective Africa, is that it is completely mobile.
“Pop-up” tent camps: Whatever will they think of next?
If you’ve ever been glamping (glamorous camping), you’ll know that erecting the tent is the least of your hassles. It’s also one of the last steps in an arduous process.
This is where Dez is something of a specialist, having worked in the business for nearly 20 years in the Kruger National Park, Botswana and Namibia. His previous employers include Chiefs Tented Camps, owned and run by Lysta Stander and Allan Johnston – both of whom I met on my second day in the Overberg camp.
Finding a suitable site is also easier than it sounds, especially since a pop-up facility generally entails renting land rather than outright acquisition. It entails (among other things) familiarity with local weather conditions including prevailing winds, relatively easy access for guests, surface and even mobile connectivity. “Surface” is vital.
The most important element of luxury camping is that glampers must never feel put out by the experience of spending time in a tent. At its most basic, this means the living area must be level as well as stable.
A reasonably soft surface not only makes this all the easier to achieve, it also facilitates the provision of electricity and water… no communal ablution blocks for a couple that’s paying R6 500 a night to be in the boonies!
Infrastructure must be sturdy enough to withstand adverse conditions without necessarily being permanent.
The next two mooted locations are the Cedarberg and Namaqualand. Check the website www. canvascollectiveafrica.com for details.
There are 10 tents, each with a queen-size bed, set in a semicircle around the communal fireplace and adjacent mess tent. The tents are not far from one another and sound travels at night in the mountains, so take care not to raise your voices in either passion or anger.
Sam and Dez made it clear to our group, even before our arrival, that they were still “snagging” and we were guineapig-guests prior to the official opening a few days later.
Most ingredients for a spectacular stay were in place, they insisted, but tweaking would be necessary.
Apologies for the inconvenience…
Luckily we were a smallish group that could be accommodated where plumbing and electrification (only when the generator was running) had been completed.
Let it be known that cellphone reception is extremely patchy but there are multiple recharging points in all the tents. There is also battery-powered LED lighting for when the generator is switched off at night.
Kerosene lanterns are lit out
side the tents each evening and these provide outside light during the night.
I’m a sucker for night-time in the bush, so I doused the lamp and dropped all the tent flaps (there is mosquito netting throughout, essential during the warmer months) and fell asleep to the sound of owls and nightjars.
I woke early as the generator was switched on to provide power for hot water for those who shower in the morning.
Because I was the only person staying two nights, I elected to perform my ablutions later in the morning when everyone had left and I could unzip the back “wall” of the tent for an almost open-air wash.
The generator has since been “sandbagged” to reduce noise.
While opulence and a good
Menu celebrates region’s Khoisan origins
night’s sleep are essential for good glamping – Sam assures me there are electric blankets at night in winter – so is the cuisine.
We were treated to a magnificent seven-course tasting-plate dinner presented by local (he’s based in Hermanus) chef and foraging expert Greg Henderson.
The banquet began beside the fire with askoek (ash cake) served with rendered butter, salt and goat’s milk cheese. We then moved inside for a beautifully presented starter called sewejaartjie of wild olive, root petals, sugarbush syrup, false buchu, fermented leeks and rhizome.
The entire menu reflected the Overberg’s indigenous Khoekhoe / Khoikhoi origins.
Such haute cuisine will be the exception rather than the rule, says Sam, with preference given rather to top-quality hearty fare served over three courses. Celebrity chefs will be brought in periodically, she reveals, with MasterChef SA judge Pete Goffe-Wood slated for a gig on Father’s Day in June.
There are some hikes in the area but, if you’re spending a couple of nights, explore Bot River and the local wine route that includes Luddite, Beaumont, Gabrielskloof and Wildekrans.
The tiny town is a fascinating place that owes its existence to the Dutch East India Company, agriculture and the railway line that used to serve the place. There’s a great little pub-restaurant called The Shuntin’ Shed on the old station that’s popular with breakfastrun bikers on weekends.
I’m particularly looking forward, however, to see the result of ongoing renovations to the Botrivier Hotel – the Afrikaans spelling of the town name is generally the accepted one – which was built in 1890.
It serves a delicious locally brewed lager and I can attest that the food, especially the mutton and butter chicken curries, are fantastic.