This is my kind of town, says author
Why Cape Town?
It is a place of astonishing natural beauty. There is also a great sense of being at the end of a continent. At Cape Point, you are at the tip of Africa; it is a wonderful feeling, to be able to see where two oceans meet. The city has an extraordinary history and is culturally complex, which adds to its vibrant nature. I try to go every other year. I usually combine work with pleasure, attending literary events when I am there and doing some writing too.
Anything special I should pack?
Binoculars. Even if you aren’t a bird watcher there will be plenty of interesting birds watching you and you might want to reciprocate.
What do you miss most when away?
The light, which is bluish and extraordinary. It is like no other I’ve seen. The winds and the sea atmosphere make it a romantic place.
What’s the first thing you do?
I look at Table Mountain. I have climbed and walked across the top, and explored the national park.
And the best place to stay?
Cape Cadogan – (021) 480-8080; capecadogan.co.za – which is a converted Cape house, with marvellous staff and beautiful large bedrooms with balconies, some of which have a view of Table Mountain.
Where would you meet friends for a drink?
The Planet Bar in the Mount Nelson Hotel – (021) 483-1000; mountnelson.co.za. This is the great old lady of South African hotels, a Cape Town institution. The place to go and soak up the atmosphere.
The best place for lunch?
Moyo at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens – (021) 762-9585; moyo. co.za. It is situated on the lower slopes of Table Mountain and staff will paint your face, while guinea fowl peck at your feet. Try the bobotie, a Cape Malay dish made from lentils and raisins, with a savoury egg custard topping.
And for dinner?
We discovered 95 Keerom – (021) 422-0765; 95keerom.com – which is a wonderful place, really fantastic. The food, which is mainly Italian, is very impressive. The Kingklip, a local fish, is a delight.
Where would you send a first-time visitor?
I would suggest a drive down the coast, over the mountain to Hout Bay and then down to Cape Point, to marvel at the view. Then travel on to Kirstenbosch Gardens, which are spectacularly beautiful. Next, visit the University of Cape Town campus and also the monument to Cecil Rhodes at Devil’s Peak. What should I avoid? The V&A Waterfront is a bit touristy, and avoid parts of Long Street. I have been visiting the latter for years, and it has become backpackerish. However, do stop in at Clarke’s Bookshop (199 Long Street, (021) 423-5739; clarkesbooks.co.za) which has the most wonderful collection of old books relating to the Cape and Africa. It is my place of pilgrimage.
Public transport or taxi?
Taxis are cheap, reliable and worth using. There is also a good train system. I wouldn’t recommend against hiring a car but I have seen some aggressive driving in Cape Town.
Manbag or money belt?
Cape Town is, by South African standards, relatively safe. Take the normal precautions that you would in any city but don’t walk around at night.
What should I bring home?
It is an arty city, so there are some good galleries that sell African art. Once I almost purchased some hand-stitched, blue leather shoes for R780 but they didn’t have my size.
If you are going to explore the wine lands just outside Cape Town, try Le Quartier Français in Franschhoek – (021) 876-2151; lqf.co.za .
Anywhere that isn’t your kind of town?
I think most places have some merits. I have been uncomfortable in a city, but I would hesitate to write anywhere off, as there is always something that makes it worthwhile.