The Herald (South Africa)

Malbec World Day deserves raising a glass

- Sam Venter

Did you raise a glass to the “Argentinia­n miracle” of malbec this past Wednesday?

You might have because April 17 was Malbec World Day or simply because this less well-known of the five classic varietals that can go into a Bordeaux blend makes an interestin­g and remarkable wine on its own.

While malbec is a French grape traditiona­lly blended with merlot and petit verdot in a Right Bank Bordeaux, its poor resistance to weather and pests meant it never really gained ground in France beyond a humble blending grape.

It is Argentina that reinvigora­ted and made malbec famous, after the president in 1853 made it his mission to upgrade the country’s wine industry and plant new varietals.

Malbec found its home particular­ly in the high-altitude Mendoza region, where it flourished (the grape develops acidity best at higher elevations) and became the country’s star wine, with Argentina now accounting for more than 75% of the world’s malbec plantings.

Malbec is an enticing, intriguing wine, typically a deep, inky purple, with a bright magenta rim a characteri­stic “tell”, dark and sultry, intense aromas and flavours of black cherry and blueberry, smokiness and spice, sometimes leatherine­ss.

It does pretty well in SA too, with a growing number of highly-rated single varietal malbecs and an annual Malbec Challenge running since 2021.

A two-time winner of that challenge, Mount Vernon Malbec 2020 proved the star of the show when winemaker Philip du Toit presented his wines at several tastings in Gqeberha last week.

Du Toit wowed his audiences too with his down-to-earth, honest presentati­on — producing stellar, award-winning wines — that have not been without flops and failures, which he readily shares.

There’s no intimidati­ng wine jargon here, just deep knowledge and passion for the piece of land he has worked as a viticultur­ist for more than 25 years and a winemaker since 2019.

Describing the estate’s location in unglamorou­s Klapmuts between Stellenbos­ch and Cape Town as “the Midrand of Cape Town”, Du Toit says his winemaking philosophy, if one must have such a thing is: “Stay humble and the good things will follow. Get too windgat [full of yourself] and you’ll get a kick in the [butt].”

He has every reason to be proud of his malbec though — the 2015 awarded as SA’s best malbec in internatio­nal competitio­n, and in 2023’s Michelange­lo awards, the 2021 won the malbec trophy, while the 2020 claimed a gold medal.

That 2020 (R279), in a word — wow! Dark, smoky and spicy, deep juicy fruit, mocha-tinged earthiness, rich and full-bodied, the flavours go on and on and it’s crying out for a medium-rare steak with blue cheese sauce.

The Mount Vernon range is small and focused on just four wines, the emphasis on handcrafte­d quality and small batches, while they also make the more everyday, widely available Three Peaks range.

Mt Vernon Chardonnay 2020 (R159) finely balances textured palate, weight and body with freshness and a lightness of touch, fermented and matured in larger, older French oak barrels.

There’s a sunny vibe about it with buttery, nutty notes complement­ed by zippy citrus, grapefruit especially, a touch of minerality to finish — subtle and elegant.

Mount Vernon Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (R215), a Michelange­lo platinum winner, is a super example of characteri­stic cab mint/eucalyptus, immediatel­y on the nose, followed by dark, ripe berry fruits, unfolding layers of flavour in intense fruit, some bushy herbal notes, a touch of smoke and chalkiness.

Built to last with definite structure, but the tannins are soft and the mouthfeel velvety-smooth — a real class act.

A fitting ending in the Mount Vernon Galileo 2018 (R299), a Bordeaux-style blend of petit verdot (50%), merlot and malbec — unusual in lacking cabernet sauvignon but none the poorer for it.

The wine is rich and plummy, herbaceous and with chalky undertones and some floral violets, full-bodied, elegant and intensely satisfying with supple tannins to go the distance.

Mount Vernon wines are available at selected Preston’s stores in Gqeberha, as well as branches in George, Port Alfred and East London (with promo prices about R20R30 off, only at Preston’s, Main Road, Walmer, until Monday April 22).

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 ?? Picture: SUPPLIED ?? CHEERS: Mount Vernon winemaker Philip du Toit hits the high notes for Pinmac wine club member Dian Malan at one of his recent local tastings
Picture: SUPPLIED CHEERS: Mount Vernon winemaker Philip du Toit hits the high notes for Pinmac wine club member Dian Malan at one of his recent local tastings

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