Sherry is shifting from gran’s rocker into the spotlight

SHERRY globally has shifted from being a delicate drink only embraced by granny in the corner to a revival honouring the refined production of a tipple before dinner or to ward off the colder weather. The 1999 trade agreement between South Africa and the European Union dictated only sherries produced in Spain’s sherry triangle could be called sherry, in the same vein as only bubbles produced in Champagne could carry that elegant name. In that environment Douglas Green wanted to meet the growing demand among South Africans for premium sherries – and today the independent producer and distributor has brought out three authentic Spanish sherries. The Douglas Green Pale Cream, Douglas Green Medium Dry and Douglas Green Cream Sherry (recommended retail price for all three R130) are produced and bottled in Spain before being imported under the local brand name. The sherries are sourced from the Caballero wine cellars in the foremost sherry districts of Sanlucar de Barrameda, Puerto de Santa Maria and Jerez de la Frontera.

Caballero is a producer known for setting a global benchmark for quality sherries and was named Best Spanish Wine Producer 2011 and Best Sherry Producer 2014 at the International Wine and Spirits Competition.

DGB marketing director Jacques Roux credits sherry’s comeback to a wave of high-end releases that have reinvigorated interest in the category among food lovers and drinkers of fine wine. The resurgence now sees various styles appearing on wine lists and in craft cocktails, which Roux says underpinned the timing decision to introduce a superior sherry range into the South African market.

Aged in wood, the Douglas Green sherries are pure non-vintage sherries made in the traditional method in which flor yeast – the thin layer of indigenous yeast cells that form on top of the sherry to prevent air contact – slowly permeate the young wine before the sherry is blended in the solera method: a series of barrels that age wine over time by fractionally blending older wine into the newer for a consistent style.

They are certainly worthwhile tracking down for another experience.

On a different note, this weekend Paarlbased Nederburg hosts the 42nd Nederburg Auction, an event proudly upheld as the country’s leading platform for selling rare, iconic South African wines.

This year white wines again caught the eye of the annual selection panel, with several world-class chenin blancs and chardonnays proving these varietals benefit significantly from further ageing.

Selection panel member Roland Peens says not only does chardonnay age well, but the younger examples on this year’s auction have carved a niche internationally. He has singled out the Domaine des Dieux Chardonnay 2010, De Wetshof Finesse Chardonnay 1993 and first-time participant Kershaw Wines Clonal Selection Chardonnay 2012 as his personal favourites.

Tasting convener Higgo Jacobs has called the Groot Constantia Chardonnay 2013, itself winner of the Chardonnay du Monde Best Chardonnay Worldwide.

Nederburg Auction manager Dalene Steyn says South Africa’s top chardonnays can compete among the world’s leaders and continue being one of the country’s top categories. Yet for now it sells more cheaply than at global levels – something she believes will not last much longer.

Come tomorrow afternoon, it will be interesting to note how accurate that statement may be.

E-mail your comments and suggestions to jenveyn@telkomsa. net.