True Love

Managing Hair Loss

Here’s how you can rescue your crowning glory from the leading causes of hair loss!

- By PALESA VILAKAZI

INVESTIGAT­ING HAIR LOSS

Hair loss amongst black women is so prevalent, that it has become the focus of many medicinal studies. One of them is by Professor Ncoza Dlova, the dean of clinical medicine at the University of KwaZulu-Natal, who has made a major breakthrou­gh in trying to tackle this hair-raising issue. It has been discovered that a major cause of permanent hair loss amongst African women is due to Central Centrifuga­l Cicatricia­l alopecia (CCCA).

Let’s break it down for you: a normal hair strand has a gene called peptidylar­ginine deiminase 3 (PAD13), which is essential for the formation and growth of healthy hair. The study found that the normal developmen­t of this gene is disrupted in patients with CCCA. It is triggered by environmen­tal factors and our go-to styling regimes — excessive use of hair chemicals, heat, braids and weaves. Now that the science bit is out of the way, we can dig deeper into why hair loss is such a big problem for black women. Our tresses play such an important role in our identity, that we invest lots of time and money on products that promise to make it look its best. We also heat it excessivel­y or change styles frequently. All of this has consequenc­es — breakage, shedding and the absolute worst, a receding hairline.

No one is immune to this problem. In a recent Instagram post where actress Gail Mabalane shared a picture of her newly bald head, she opened up about her struggle with alopecia and added that she was currently undergoing treatment. Media personalit­y Jada Pinkett Smith has also revealed her struggle with hair loss, following questions on why she was always wearing a head scarf when filming her hit Facebook talk show, Red Table Talk. Oscar-winning actress Viola Davis has been quoted saying that she is also a victim of alopecia – she lost half of her hair due to stress when she was 28. And, supermodel Naomi Campbell is now the face of hair loss, which is exercabate­d by the fact that she’s always wearing weaves, without taking breaks in between.

Many other women silently carry the shame of hair loss and often go undiagnose­d, opting instead, to cover up with a wig or head scarves. We avoid seeking treatment for fear of judgement, and are reluctant to learn new healthy hair practices to rejuvenate our hair. But fret no more because help is finally here!

OTHER CAUSES OF HAIR LOSS

Besides CCCA — a disorder in which inflammati­on and the destructio­n of hair follicles causes scarring and permanent hair loss — other hair loss causes include damaging hair styling routines like having your braids installed too tightly, wearing weaves frequently and relaxing natural hair with harsh chemicals. One other factor is, keeping the same style for too long.

Then there is stress — intense emotional or physical stress pushes large numbers of hair follicles into a resting phase. After a few months, affected hairs might fall out during combing or washing. This phemonenon is known as telogen effluvium. The body will return to its normal state only when the stress is over, and only then will it kickstart your hair’s natural growth cycle.

MANAGING THE DAMAGE

Early signs of hair loss can include patches of hair that don’t grow back, or decreasing volume, which you may notice in a thinner ponytail or thinning patch of hair. Inflammati­on, caused by CCCA, can lead to a tingly scalp, which most women dismiss as a minor issue. If any of the above applies to you, seek the help of a dermatolog­ist. A health profession­al will diagnose your problem and recommend suitable treatment options. These may include topical or oral antibiotic­s to reduce inflammati­on, or minoxidil to promote new growth.

You can also curb excessive hair loss by limiting frequent styling and avoiding tight hairdos. These put hair follicles under immense pressure, which eventually stunts growth. Richard Ndaba, Inoar brand ambassador, says, “Use natural products that contain ingredient­s with healing properties for the scalp, as well as the hair itself. A healthy scalp is critical for healthy hair! If you insist on doing plaits or installing a weave, first do a protein and moisture treatment to strengthen your hair.”

PROTECTING YOUR CROWN

These are some products to include in your hair regimen:

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