Style Star – Palesa Mokubung
Fashion designer Palesa Mokubung on being the first-ever African brand to collaborate with Swedish retail giant, H&M
What has sustained your label, Mantsho, over the years?
For us to still be in business today is due to a number of reasons. These include relentlessness, persistence, perseverance, knowing who I am and staying true to that. I'm a creative, which is something I knew from a young age, having seen it through my father and brother – my brother showed promise quite early. I was groomed and encouraged into what I do. My mother would be like, "So what are you making me for Mother's Day?" The expectation was that I needed to make something creative. So in a way, I knew I'd end up here, in fashion. But, what has kept the brand going is falling and getting up. Sorting out my personal life and not living life in front of the media has given me time to grow as a leader.
Tell us how your journey with H&M came about.
They approached me around November last year, and told me that I'd been shortlisted as one of the people they wanted to collaborate with. At the time, I didn't know that this would be their first African partnership. So, when we met, I still didn't know who was in the running. H&M said they wanted to first visit the studio and store to get a sense of what we do, before making their final decision. When they came to us, we were fully prepared because we'd been working hard. I'm proud to say that I've been at this for 15 years – it's taken us that long to get here. Sometimes, you make it too early in life but you're not ready. You don't have a story to tell, at least not one that can move the continent like this one has. I'm happy that this opportunity came now, and not earlier.
Was the accessories line also part of the plan?
When H&M came to our store, they noticed that we didn't only house Mantsho products, but offered a full range of accessories from other brands. We understand the idea of putting together a full look. A woman needs to walk away with a bag, shoes or a
belt along with their outfit – that's how the 10-piece accessories line was born. It includes earrings, bags and shoes.
Did you have a specific mandate from H&M on designing the collection?
It's been a collaboration. I mean, they studied us from Fashion Weeks, to Instagram and our website – they knew what they were signing up for. Working together entailed both parties putting different styles into a bag and finally deciding which one would work best.
What can we expect from the range?
I thought it'd be great to offer bestsellers from the last few seasons, and to also create a lot of prints for the range. There are many people who don't know about Mantsho and so don't own our garments, yet I know what styles they'd like and what will work for them. I wanted to offer the best of what we have in stock. At the same time, I also want to sell clothes. I am a businesswoman, after all. I wanted this collabo to be successful by not just creating experimental pieces that would have a short shelf life. I wanted the items to be timeless, which is what Mantsho is synonymous with.
Will the garments be affordable?
The price range is from R599 to about R1 599 – and that's for everything. So, if you have R1 500, you can leave the shop with an entire look.
Is it a summer collection?
It's a transitional range, so you'd probably wear a print top with long sleeves. There are also skirts, kimonos, dresses and signature pieces, all made in new prints.
How do you feel knowing that your label will be showcased around the world?
It's surreal and mind-boggling, especially when I think of the different markets! I'm curious to find out what prints are going to resonate with different markets. Imagine Mantsho in Israel? Then there is the Netherlands, Belgium and Chile. It's a big deal! H&M has 61 stores globally in 11 markets, and 48 online stores. Yet, as much as I'm excited about the global impact, I'm keen to see how it does here at home. I'm really excited about the South African market, because there's a sense of pride that the announcement brought to the fashion industry, to women in fashion and to the arts and designers, in general.
What are you most looking forward to?
I can't wait for people to see the store window displays – they're going to blow your mind! I mean, first, there'll be a TV ad, then ads in the cinemas and on billboards. I can't wait to see our signature print on the windows of all 25 stores nationwide. The 15 years it took for us to get here have been worth it. I'm so proud and humbled!
Do you think there is a connection between having your first child and this moment?
I think so. Look, I could have had five children many years ago or I could've had them in dribs and drabs [chuckles]. This could've happened at a different time. There are so many other new things happening in my personal life and the fact that they are all happening now, is beautiful. When H&M approached me about this deal, I knew I was pregnant, but was waiting for a safe period to announce it. H&M is a Swedish company, and Sweden has the most amazing laws for pregnant women.
And so, it's amazing to be on this journey with a company like this, that takes care of women in that respect. After I got the contract, I travelled to Sweden when I was 4 to 5 months pregnant and they rolled out the red carpet for me! The fact that I was able to have my first child, while working with such an incredible company, has been amazing to say the least.
When is the range hitting stores locally and globally?
The 14-piece collection will be in stores from 15 August 2019.