Style Star – Anissa Mpungwe

Anisa Mpungwe, founder of Loin Cloth & Ashes, opens up about life as a fashion designer, the business side of things and lessons learnt!

For those who don’t know Anisa Mpungwe, tell us about yourself ?

I’m a designer from Tanzania and I’ve been in the fashion and lifestyle industry for over 12 years. I come from a family of diplomat parents and two creative siblings – one is a chef and the other is an architect.

How do you keep up with the latest trends?

I believe that if I want to remain in business, I need to always understand the industry I’m in and what’s happening abroad. Everything tends to influence purchasing power, so for me, reading on what is happening in the markets – from trends to why China said no more to buying plastic – is very important.

Was there a rookie mistake you made when you were starting out? If so, what was it?

Yes, I remember the first time I finished a client’s dress without receiving a deposit.

She had communicated with me from another city right after I had won the Elle New Talent competition in 2008, so I had no way of tracking her. I needed 10 metres of fabric and it cost me R3 000 to make the dress. This was a big loss for me because the client just disappeared. However, I’m glad that it happened because it forced me to get mentors in business to help me through my journey.

How has working in the fashion industry changed for you over the years?

I’m more matured now and less “dizzy” about the unforeseeable things that can happen in the day-to-day running of the business. When I started out, I was 23 years old and very gullible. Now I’m quite direct in my goals, I take my responsibilities very seriously, and make fewer mistakes. I’ve also worked hard at building relationships within the industry to make achieving

my goals easier. For example, I know who to call if I need to find a specific kind of fabric or to make sure the back end of my business is on track. I also hire people who know more in certain areas than me, so that I can constantly update my knowledge of business.

What’s the best piece of business advice you’ve heard?

Don’t put all your eggs in one basket.

How do you balance creativity with commerce?

Well, the two need each other. If I’m not making money, I can’t be freely creative. My time would be highly limited because I wouldn’t be able to afford to pay anyone to make my life easier, I would be doing everything myself. The two need to balance each other out. We also need to remember that we’re in this business to serve people, so one has to be creative without compromising the brand identity.

What music, movie or book gets you ready to brainstorm or sketch?

I really love music. If it wasn’t for fashion, I would probably be in the music industry. I’m now practising song writing just for fun! The book I’m dying to get my hands on is Small Doses by Amanda Seales, the way she sees femininity is really empowering.

Do you have a specific research process when you start a new collection?

Yes, I have questions that I answer to when it comes to things like: am I covering the basics of a wardrobe? Thereafter, I dream about my palette, silhouette and what story I’m trying to convey. Sometimes I tone it down, other times I amp it up. It’s a very moody process, however at the end of it all I must have fun.

Why did you decide to become a fashion designer?

There’s something special and magical about creating something out of nothing.

When did you get your first big break?

When my parents allowed me to follow my dreams.

What is your favourite part of being a fashion designer?

Crossing off to-do lists! Jokes aside, every part is nice because it involves problem solving and I have to apply my mind. I always end up discovering something new about myself.

What skills are necessary for a successful fashion designer?

Knowing when to ask for help. It saves a lot of time and you’ll feel less anxious. Also, don’t take anything at face value, investigate and remain calm.

If you could go back and tell your younger self one thing before beginning your career, what would it be?

Start saving, kiddo!

If you got the opportunity to work with an international designer, who would you like to collaborate with and why?

Hussein Chalayan. I think the way he thinks about design is intriguing and thoughtprovoking. I also find Michael Kors’ business strategy quite smart.

How do you want women to feel when wearing your clothes?

Comfortable and confident. I’d like for them to feel like the best version of themselves.

What excites you the most about fashion?

The challenge to use every piece of fabric without wasting, you really need to be creative. I like to pass on the things I know to those who are just entering the business, and also challenge myself to learn new technologies on how to understand and reach my clients better.

What’s the fashion rule you disagree with?

The concept of trends has never made sense to me because when we all go home at the end of the day, we like what we like.

If you could have coffee with anyone on the planet, who would it be?

US Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez.

What can we expect from you in 2020?

I’m exploring and having fun with coats!