Skin Lightening vs Brightening

There are many debates and concerns around black women’s complexion. We unpack one of the thorniest – the difference between skin lighteners and brighteners. You decide which one’s best!

SKIN LIGHTENING

This is not to be confused with skin bleaching or whitening.

What it does: Skin lightening reduces pigmentation, removes discolouration, and evens out the complexion through products or procedures only. The products target particular areas like age spots and hyperpigmentation from acne breakouts and bruising.

How it works: Lightening creams work to reduce the melanin pigmentation in a particular area on the skin and are best used for a short period of time. “As we age, the skin turnover slows down, cells are not shed quickly enough and they create a dull appearance, together with sun damage and stress,” says Dr Portia Gumede known as Dr P, owner and dermatologist at Dr P Aesthetic Lifestyle Centre.

Ingredients: Products mostly contain hydroquinone, Kojic acid, Vitamin C and retinol. Some illegal products contain a high dose of hydroquinone that damages and thins out the skin, and is unsuitable for all skin types. Kojic acid prevents the formation of an amino acid needed to produce melanin.

Usage: Skin lightening products should be used sparingly, for a short time and only when prescribed for a specific skin concern, Dr P adds.

SKIN BRIGHTENING

What it does: Also known as skin illuminating, it restores vibrancy and increases the skin’s glow. How it works: Brightening products help to rejuvenate dry, dull, tired and textured skin so it visibly looks refreshed and healthy. They are not meant to alter your natural skin tone at all.

Ingredients: Brightening products contain vitamin C, retinol, alpha and beta hydroxyl acids (AHA & BHA). AHAs and BHA’s are chemical exfoliants that can penetrate deep into the skin’s layers and are gentler on the skin. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from environmental pollutants and UV radiation. Retinoids reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen. They also stimulate the production of new blood vessels in the skin, which improves skin colour. Brighteners are usually in the form of exfoliators, antioxidants, light-diffusers, or a combination of these key ingredients, to promote skin regeneration.

Usage: Dr P says, “Skin brightening products are an integral part of a skin care regimen to combat aging and for a smooth even skin tone.”