Special Report – Staying Forever Young
The new generation doesn’t subscribe to the “Black Don’t Crack” theory of aging gracefully. Instead, there’s a steady rise in the number of black women looking for ways to enhance their looks. We examine the latest trends and what should guide your decision to look eternally youthful!
South African women are not shy when it comes to making every effort to look their best physically, with several celebrities like Mshoza and Khanyi Mbau openly admitting to lightening their skin. While this might not be for everyone, one cannot escape the fact that large numbers of black women now choose to have procedures done. These range from non-invasive to traditional plastic surgery procedures. There is nothing wrong with getting a bit of a “nip and tuck” when the circumstances are right, but the most important thing is to make sure you’re in good hands. This means making sure the doctor is appropriately qualified, says Dr Manti Makakole, a specialist plastic and reconstructive surgeon at Greys Hospital in Pietermaritzburg. “They should check that the doctor is a member of the Association of Plastic, Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgeons of Southern Africa (APRASSA) – the body that ensures the highest standards and ethics in the profession are maintained. Choosing a doctor from this database ensures that you have recourse if you have any complaints or disputes resulting from the service received.” He added that there’s been a significant increase in black women requesting cosmetic surgery procedures over the past few years. This is in line with the greater awareness of availability locally, coupled with greater media and TV exposure to cosmetic procedures. The most frequently requested procedures are breast reductions, breast lift (mastopexy), liposuction and tummy tuck (abdominoplasty). There’s also an emerging trend towards the ‘western look’, characterised by more frequent inquiries and requests for a nose job (rhinoplasty).
DESIRING TO STAY FOREVER YOUNG
Should we allow nature to take its course or make use of the countless available options in the 21st century that allow
women to choose exactly how they’d like to age in the eyes of the world? The “easy” win is to start with non-invasive procedures and here, Dr Nandipha Thandi Ndhlovu, founder of Skin Oasis Health Centre, is one of the best in the field. She says there’s been a significant increase in black women wanting Botox and dermal fillers. But, before you make a decision, it’s important to thoroughly vet the institution and doctor before getting any procedure done. This would cut down on later having “mistakes” fixed, which is not always possible.
This evaluation can be done through online research, physical visits, as well as feedback from previous patients. Dr Ndhlovu also points out that, because of the nature of black skin, pigmentation is a major issue that makes it a must to wear sunscreen daily. “The most important thing after getting any procedure done, is to follow the aftercare regimen exactly for best results.” Another useful piece of advice Dr Ndhlovu has, is to be aware of certain issues specific to black skin before choosing procedures. “What I’ve found is that when it comes to phototype, – the amount of melanin pigment the skin has – black people register as phototype 5 and 6. This means we get affected by pigmentation 80% more than any other phototype, which is why you always need to ask a medical practitioner about anything that’s done to an organ of your body, and the skin is our largest body organ. There are certain types of IPL
lasers (IPL stands for intense pulsed light. It’s a type of light therapy used to treat wrinkles, spots, and unwanted hair) that burn at a higher level, so black people are not good candidates for this.”
THE RISE OF NEW-AGE AESTHETIC CLINICS
In the past, the majority of enhancements happened under surgery. While this produced results, the drawbacks included lengthy recovery periods, bruising and possible complications. Improvements in health technology mean that interest, and the number of non-invasive procedures has, risen globally.
According to a 2018 study by the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS), almost 18 million people underwent surgical and minimally invasive cosmetic procedures in the United States. The three most popular procedures were Botulinum toxin type A (Botox), soft tissue fillers and chemical peels. This is in line with the rise of other treatments previously considered exotic, such as vampire facials, micro-needling and fat freezing.
In South Africa, the demand for these procedureshasrisenatthesamerateand there are now clinics nationwide that offer a large variety of options. This led to the formation of The Aesthetic and Anti-aging Medicine Society of South Africa, a medical society committed to the practice, advancement and regulation of aesthetic and anti-aging medicine in SA. They are affiliated with the International Union of Aesthetic Medicine (UIME).
DOES A COCKTAIL
DRIP LIGHTEN SKIN?
Ever since cocktail drips came on the market, there has been a rumour that too much, or too frequent administration of the vitamin cocktail drip can lighten your skin. Dr Fran Cook-Bolden, a dermatologist at Skin Specialty Dermatology in Manhattan, New York, dismissed this as an urban legend. What is known is that there is a vitamin drip containing minerals like magnesium and zinc, B-complex vitamins, and vitamin C, all of which support healthy skin function that is popular for those wanting to have a glowing skin. Patients swear it works and it’s one of the most popular combinations.
Another rising trend is a glutathione drip. Glutathione is an antioxidant that occurs naturally in our bodies, with its most notable side effect being lightening the skin by deactivating the enzyme tyrosinase, which helps produce melanin. Now women go to clinics requesting this drip for its skin lightening properties.
Seemal Desai, a dermatologist in Texas and president of the Skin of Color Society, warns that this treatment is non-regulated and would not recommend it until further tests have been done to establish its safety. So, in summary, you can get a drip to lighten your skin but you probably should not do it.
DO AESTHETIC PROCEDURES DELIVER?
Overall, the answer is yes. The main appeal of aesthetic procedures is that they are targeting patients who want subtle results over time instead of drastic changes overnight. With careful consultation and the right medical practitioner, it is possible to achieve realistic goals in a short amount of time.
Every woman has her personal preferences when it comes to looks and ideal body, so it’s possible to map out a regimen that will satisfy these. There are concerns that easy access to these procedures might encourage addiction, but that’s not entirely true. The small percentage of surgery addicts become that way through underlying psychological issues that go untreated for years.
At the end of the day, the choice whether or not to allow time and Mother Nature to dictate your aging process is completely up to you. Many women dabble in both surgical and noninvasive procedures, and proudly share these online and in person. Others are content to just be. What matters is being comfortable in your skin, whatever that looks like.