The Perfect Make-up
Navigating the world of make-up can be challenging. We show you how to build the perfect kit for your skin type
For a long time, beauty brands ignored the diversity in the complexions of black women, offering a limited variety of shades for darker skin. This left us struggling to find make-up that worked for our array of complexions and skin types. However, with brands such as Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, whose collection has 40 shades of foundation, and L’ORÉAL Paris making actress Viola Davis its spokesperson, the industry is shaking. Brands are now making an effort to not only provide foundations and make-up that are a perfect match, but those that also address hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. We know just how overwhelming it is to find the right make-up for your skin type and complexion. Here are top tips to finding your perfect kit.
PREP LIKE A PRO
Piling make-up on your face without preparing it can be bad for your skin. If you skip the skincare routine before applying it, you could end up with patchy coverage that doesn’t stay on for long. Your first step should be to cleanse your skin to remove all the dirt, oil and impurities. Then, follow up with a toner. While your skin is still damp, moisturise it. You’re now ready for the last and most important phase – applying a primer. This helps to create a smooth base for your application, and extends the wear of your foundation and concealer. Make-up artist Vuyo Varoy says if you have oily skin, you should use a mattifying primer to keep excess oil at bay. “For dry skin, try a luminous primer that will leave your complexion with a radiant glow that lasts all-day long. If you have uneven texture, use a silky formula that glides on to your skin. This will
result in an even and matte finish that looks flawless,” he advises. Primer will smooth out visible lines, hide pores, and banish imperfections.
ACE THAT BASE
You need a base that will also give your skin a boost when wearing it. So, use foundations that contain serums because they have skincare benefits. Additionally, they’ll nourish it throughout the day. Make sure that the foundation you choose melts into your complexion like a second skin. You can do this by testing it on your jawline or chest. If you want a glowy finish, stick to liquids and mousses for the ultimate blend. Invest in two shades so you can mix and match through the seasons. In winter, you’ll need a lighter foundation while in summer, you’ll need a deeper one because the sun can darken your complexion. “Your secret weapon to breathing life back into your foundation is a setting spray, especially if it’s beginning to look dull,” says make-up artist Nthato Mashishi.
CONCEALER, ANYONE?
Using a top-grade concealer is key to a flawless application. The best ones usually hide discolourations, lighten dark areas and assist your foundation in giving an even skin tone. Badly formulated or applied concealer can put a spotlight on problem areas — making blemishes more visible. Be sure to choose yours based on what works for your skin type and concerns.
If you have dry skin, don’t use a liquid concealer with a matte finish as it will only emphasise dryness. If it is oily, and with enlarged pores, don’t use a creamy or stick concealer as it tends to clog and magnify the appearance of pores. To create a more even finish over minor discolourations, a light-tomedium coverage concealer will do the trick. “For the under-eye area, use a concealer that’s only one or two shades lighter than your natural tone to avoid an obvious white circle around it. For your face, use a concealer that matches your foundation,” Varoy says.
POWDER PERFECT
Lightly dusting a face powder is the perfect finishing touch to a flawless face as it sets your make-up. Setting makes it last longer, evens out your tone, hides minor perfections and boosts sun protection. “You need to choose the right powder for your skin tone, type and needs. It should match the colour of your skin. If you break this rule, you’ll look like you’re wearing a mask,” Mashishi cautions. Choose a subtle shiny finish that will give you a natural glow. The right powder has a lightweight, finely milled texture that glides smoothly and blends evenly. If you have oily skin, opt for those with absorbing ingredients, such as silica or talc, to soak up the excess oil.
GLOW-GETTER
A highlighter serves one main purpose – to highlight the high points of your face and accentuate your bone structure to catch the light. The wrong shade completely defeats the purpose. When applied correctly, it can help lift and brighten your overall appearance, and give your complexion that dewy, luminous look. But first, find the right formula and a shade that is flattering to your skin tone. For a natural-looking finish, your highlighter should be two shades lighter than your tone. And, always apply above your cheekbones. You can slim down your nose by applying it straight down the bridge. To look more awake, put some around the inner corner of your eyes. “A fan make-up brush is your one-way ticket to perfection. It works to lightly dust a product on to your face for a naturallooking glow,” Mashishi concludes.