West Coast lodge offers comfort and style

OUR FIRST night on the West Coast was spent at Darling Lodge, a lovely homely guest house run by Stephan Moser and Oliver Studer, who apparently do everything themselves. We didn’t see any other staff members, and Moser himself – in an apron – served us breakfast the next morning.

Darling Lodge has six rooms, some in the main house, and the rest in a separate building. Between them is the most gorgeous garden, slightly wild, with water features and stone pathways.

Our room opened on to the pool area where we relaxed and took advantage of the free wi-fi. In Darling, and other country places I’ve visited, it’s the BFound service which has the added advantage of tracking your movements and e-mailing you newsletters of things happening during your stay.

Or you could just ask Moser. He had put together a whole lot of pamphlets for us, including the Darling Mystery Trail which happens daily. Departing from the museum on the next corner, you get a map for the trail which can be walked in an easy two-hour stroll, or cycled. Along the way there are riddles and clues to a hidden treasure, plus you go into a draw to win a weekend in Darling.

More info is at www.mysterytrail.co.za.

That evening we had dinner at Bistro Seven on the main road. Divine Lady D had pork belly which is cooked for nine hours and can be eaten with a spoon, while I had a steak about twice the size advertised on the menu. For dessert we shared light-as-air cheesecake.

The following day we visited the museum – and you know you’re getting old when you can remember your grandmother using things they have on display. There is also a special butter museum. It’s A Thing, apparently.

So are the toffees. Everywhere we went we either saw them for sale, or were asked if we had tried them yet. Darling Sweet is in the Mantis Mall – a bustling hive of economy housing this, Chicory Cheese coffee shop, and the last bookshop until Namibia (according to Pieter-Dirk Uys).

The toffee is produced on the premises in a glassed-off kitchen so you can watch wistfully as the staff roll, slice, and wrap. There are three flavours – original, sour fig, and honey and salt – of which you can get samples to try before you buy.

Other things to do and places to visit if you are in the immediate vicinity include the Darling Meat Market (Main Road) for biltong and droewors, the Groote Post country market (January 25), the open air cinema at Darling Lodge on January 23 and 24, and the Darling Music Experience from January 30 to February 5 (www.darlingmusic.org).

● Darling Lodge is in Pastorie Street, telephone 022 492 3062 or e-mail info@darlinglodge.co.za. To book at Bistro Seven call 022 492 3626 or e-mail haslam@megaserve.net (closed on Tuesdays). Contact Darling Sweet on 083 235 4002 or e-mail frits@darlingsweet.co.za, and the museum’s telephone number is 022 492 3361.