Weekend Argus (Saturday Edition)
Is restaurant the veal deal?
OH my word. When I googled “what does veal taste like?” this was the first result, from an article – on the Smithsonian website no less – titled “Human Flesh Looks Like Beef, But the Taste Is More Elusive”:
“It was like good, fully developed veal, not young, but not yet beef. It was very definitely like that and it was not like any other meat I had ever tasted. It was so nearly like good, fully developed veal that I think no person with a palate of ordinary, normal sensitiveness could distinguish it from veal”.
So said William Seabrook, an author and journalist who travelled to west Africa in the 1920s. Turns out he was a fraud and tribesmen he met in the jungle didn’t allow him to share their traditions.
It really wasn’t what I had in mind as I set out to write this story. The question was to find out how much flavour veal actually has and how easy it is to confuse with other meat, such as chicken. Both are fairly bland which is why they’re usually dressed up with other ingredients and sauces.
At A Tavola the menu offers veal scallops al funghi or limone and saltimbocca alla Romana – chicken breast or veal topped with cheese, sage and prosciutto. We ordered directly from the man in chef ’s whites, Jomo Dumani, who assured me that telling him what I wanted to eat was the safest thing possible and there would be no mistakes.
I picked the veal saltimbocca. When it arrived it seemed a bit dry and tough for baby cow, but it wasn’t immediately apparent I had been served the chicken. The bill was for the lesser amount – R125 as opposed to R155 so I’m guessing it was in fact chicken. In a way that’s good, because it means it wasn’t badly cooked veal.
My lady date did well with her tagliolini al funghi e tartufo (R132), a bowl of thin pasta tossed with wild mushrooms, rocket and truffle oil, topped with Parmesan. She was in raptures – a little taste confirmed why – and it took all her strength not to finish it so she could have a bit to take home for a bedtime snack. It was truly delicious and full of gorgeous earthy flavours.
We began our meal by sharing a caprese salad (R92) with a soft ball of burrata mozzarella with a liquid centre, which was wonderful.
A substantial selection of antipasti leads the menu – some of which are served in full portions – followed by salads, pastas (primi) and mains (secondi), finishing with fabulous dolci like layers of amaretti biscuits with zabaglione, cream, walnuts and grated chocolate.
Damn you, diet. Damn you. A separate menu detailed the specials.
The wine list is extensive, with local, Italian and Spanish wines. There are many great ones available by the glass (250ml carafe). I had Sophie Te’Blanche (R52) and my friend had two carafes (R65 each and no I wasn’t trying to get her drunk) of chardonnay from Springfield, which is fast becoming one of my favourite farms. What wonderful wines they make out there in Robertson.
A Tavola is a popular place, so I’d suggest you book. Our bill, without a tip, came to R531.