Currying flavour: a step-by-step guide

Start by braising your spices. Melt a little ghee in a flat pot on a gentle heat and add your whole spices, which can include coriander seeds, fennel seeds, jeera (cumin) seeds, whole cinnamon or cassia (known at the Cape as stick cinnamon), bay leaf, whole cloves, cumin seeds in or out of the husk, star anise, mustard seeds, in any combination and quantity you like. Just experiment. There are no strict rules with curry. But this is not where you add your chilli, which needs to be added to a hot, liquid mixture otherwise it will smoke away, spoiling the flavour and making you cough.

Alternatively, leave out the ghee (clarified butter) at the beginning and toast your spices in a hot, dry pan. Then add your ghee, melt it, and continue as above.

The seeds, having started popping gently (which they will whether you use the dry or wet method as described above), add your ghee (if you haven’t already), melt it and then add finely chopped onion, garlic and, if using, fresh ginger cut very finely. Simmer all this gently for a few minutes.

This is when to add either several whole, ripe tomatoes, finely chopped, or a can of chopped tomatoes (which is what I use). Add the same amount of cold water, stir, and bring to a simmer. This is also when to add your chilli, finely chopped, whether fresh or dried.

Only now do you need to add your curry/masala, of whatever mix you fancy. Don’t screw up your nose at the thought of buying a ready-made masala from a good spice shop. They’re mixed by people who know what they are doing and you’re unlikely to better them. Spend your creativity more wisely as in the step above involving braising your hard spices.

Now salt the mix to taste, and stir. No pepper.

Only now do you add your lamb, mutton or beef, stirring and then leaving to simmer for two or three hours, very gently, until the meat is fall-apart tender.

Or, if cooking chicken, cook only for about 45 minutes.

Or, if making a seafood curry, add pieces of fish about 10 minutes before the end and smaller items such as mussels or (small) prawns five minutes before you’re ready to serve. And use a milder curry broth, to which add tamarind water (soak pulp seeds in cold water and use liquid.)

If using curry leaves, only add a few minutes before serving, stirring them in.

If finishing with chopped fresh coriander, chop finely and divide in half. Add half to pot, stirring it in which works that lovely coriander flavour through curry, and sprinkle remainder over on the plate.