Weekend Argus (Saturday Edition)
It’s glorious, it’s out of this world… it’s Franschhoek
AS you drive into Franschhoek along the R45, before it becomes Huguenot Road through the village, you cannot help but be soothed by the glorious scenery.
Nestled in a valley between the Groot Drakenstein, Franschhoek and Simonsberg mountains which close it off from the rest of the world, there is only one other way to get there – over the pass from Theewaterskloof. If you’ve got the time, do add this route to your itinerary. The view from the top is magnificent and well worth the effort.
The valley has had a few names over the centuries. The French Huguenots pitched up in 1688 and called it le Coin Français (the French Corner), and later the Dutch changed it to Franschhoek (meaning the same thing, in a different language).
Oliefantshoek (Elephants’ Corner) was another one, because ellies used to come here to calve. That’s the official story. However, I like to think it’s because a part of the mountain range which I swear – when the light is just right, and you squint just so – looks like an elephant.
Farms were named in French and many still exist today, as does the French influence. Bastille Day is just one of the many annual festivals, the Huguenot Monument and museum are dedicated to the cultural influences, and there are more than 20 Méthode Cap Classique producers making bubbly in the time-honoured French tradition.
This is in addition to many other wine estates, so a visit to Franschhoek is more than likely going to include visiting as many of these as possible. A popular and convenient way to enjoy a sort-of structured (how much is up to you) day of wine tasting is on the Franschhoek Wine Tram. The hop-on hop-off service uses a new double-decker tram, as well as tram buses, to ferry you to up to eight farms in as many hours.
Don’t overlook the joys of the village though. Tuk Tuk
Top restaurants, top wine estates, some of the world’s best scenery, this quaint part of the Western Cape is hard to beat, writes
Bianca Coleman
microbrewery, which is part of the Leeu Collection, crafts beer uses water from the surrounding mountains. Also in the Collection is the excellent Marigold Restaurant across the road for divine Indian cuisine, and while you’re there you simply must pop in at De Villiers Chocolate where all the products – chocolate bars, nougat, ice cream, tarts – are gluten-free (even the one containing biscotti), non-GMO, contain no artificial colourants, flavourings or stabilisers. My recommendation is a shot of pure hot chocolate in an espresso cup.
Food is huge in Franschhoek with many estates having their own award-winning restaurants, as well as several in the village itself. The list includes Eat Out top 10 winners, past and present. Celebrity chef Reuben Riffel recently opened his new one, just off the main road, and Darren Badenhorst’s new restaurant, Le Coin Français, is close by. La Petite Colombe is another one making waves.
It doesn’t always have to be super fancy fine dining. I love The Big Dog Café, which belongs to Terbedore Coffee Roasters and where breakfast is served all day. The buttermilk fried chicken and waffles is a best-seller as are the mushrooms on toast.
This is a simplistic description of a dish of mixed mushrooms on thin sourdough toast with softpoached local free-range eggs, crisp coffee- cured bacon made by Neil Jewell (just down the road), spinach-flecked hollandaise, and the one thing that adds an explosion of flavour: onion and miso puree spread on the toast. Terbedore coffee is roasted on site and one of the blends is my current at-home brand. Also, three more words –
Red Velvet latte.
Another great place to pop in for coffee is The Hoek Espresso Bar, just off Huguenot Road. It’s tiny and busy, which says it all, and you can sit outside at a table with a view that is not quite in the middle of the hustle and bustle. It was super convenient for me because I spent the night at Franschhoek Boutique Hotel, which is right next door.
It has what they delightfully call “boudoirs”, just six of them. Modern and comfortable, all include complimentary wifi, minibar fridge and wine cooler, heated flooring and towel rails, a Morso contemporary fireplace, beverage and bar station (with a free bottle of wine, just saying), and full bath and shower facilities. Although I was just one road back from Huguenot, the view of the mountains and the sunset suggested otherwise.
Staying in the village has many benefits, besides the ones already mentioned. There are so many lovely shops and boutiques, and more art galleries than you can shake a paintbrush at, with beauty relentlessly assaulting your eyes at every turn. Whether you’re after country-style vineyard luxury or quaint small-town life, Franschhoek will take care of you.
INFO BOX
For a comprehensive overview of Franschhoek, what to do and where to stay, go to https://franschhoek. org.za
● Telephone: +27(0) 21 876 2861
● e-mail: info@franschhoek.org.za