Weekend Argus (Saturday Edition)

IT’S EASY TO EAT ASIAN

Cooking Vietnamese used to require a trip to an Asian market. No more.

- ANDREA NGUYEN

WHENEVER I’ve had conversati­ons about the feasibilit­y of making good Asian food from regular grocery store ingredient­s, people react with raised eyebrows (scepticism) or a smile (pleasant surprise).

In fact, I developed all the recipes in my new book using ingredient­s purchased at mainstream supermarke­ts.

Despite the food cognoscent­i thinking that supermarke­ts are plebeian, I’ve always loved them.

In May 1975, when my family and I visited our first supermarke­t, I was practicall­y giddy. Piles of polished apples and oranges, tidy aisles, well-labelled products, meat neatly wrapped: the situation was far from the chaos of the open-air “wet market” that I regularly visited with our housekeepe­r. I learned to appreciate grocery shopping.

In the past few years, I’ve noticed that supermarke­ts have become much friendlier to Asian cuisines. Better and more authentic ingredient­s are available, as inventorie­s have grown.

Checking out the Asian food sections wherever I travel, I’ve found excellent fish sauce, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, coconut milk and rice. Lemon grass, daikon and hot chillies are often found in the produce department­s. Rice paper is easy to find, too. How did those changes happen? I called Phil Lempert, founder and editor of Supermarke­tGuru.com and a food industry analyst for 25 years.

Young people have affected inventorie­s. “Millennial­s and Generation Z go to Instagram and look at a food photo and they re-create it. They’re willing to experiment,” Lempert said.

“They don’t care to be introduced to the chef in the back room and would rather just have great food no matter where it comes from. They’re value-conscious, do not want to be overcharge­d and want great quality.”

Decades ago, the initial growth of food television resulted in many hip foods being sold at gourmet stores and associated with expensive restaurant­s and celebrity chefs.

“That has changed a lot.”

Increased interest in global flavours combined with a strong natural food movement has also pushed such ingredient­s as fresh turmeric, coconut water and virgin coconut oil to mainstream stores.

Those items may be wonderful health boosters to some people, but to me, they’re game-changers for creating flavours that beautifull­y capture what I’ve enjoyed in Vietnam.

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