GRILLED LEMON GRASS PORK CHOPS

VIETNAMESE cooks love thin pork chops because the chops pick up seasonings quickly, cook fast and taste great – perfect for a weeknight meal. Sold at many supermarkets, the skinny chops have either a curved rib bone or T-shaped bone.

An edge of fat and marbling signal good flavour. You can marinate the pork in many ways, but lemon grass is a signature Viet flavour.

The chops can be also be done on the grill over medium-high heat (5 to 7 minutes, then the same resting period). To make the marinade without a mini food processor, see the variation, below.

Serve the chops with rice and grilled vegetables, such as courgette; season the veggies with leftover marinade, salt, pepper and oil, and then add to the stove-top pan or grill.

The pork is also great sliced for banh mi, rice paper rolls and rice noodle salad bowls. Make ahead: The pork chops need to marinate for at least 30 minutes (at room temperature), or up to a day, refrigerated.

3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped (1 tbs) 2 tbs coarsely chopped shallot, or

3 tbs coarsely chopped yellow onion

¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh lemon grass (from 2 medium stalks; tough outer layer discarded)

2 tbs light or dark brown sugar

Rounded ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 tbs plus 1½ tsp canola or other neutrally flavoured oil

1 tbs plus 1½ tsp fish sauce

1¼ tsp soy sauce

½ tsp molasses or dark amber honey 4 thin-cut, bone-in pork chops, about

1cm thick

½ cup nuoc cham dipping sauce (optional)

Combine the garlic, shallot or onion, lemon grass, brown sugar and pepper in a food processor; process to a fine texture.

Add the canola oil, fish sauce, soy sauce and molasses or honey; process until relatively smooth, to form a wet paste.

This is your marinade; transfer to a mixing bowl.

Use paper towels to blot excess moisture from the pork.

Add the pork to the marinade, turning to coat well, then cover and marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Or, refrigerate for up to

24 hours; let the meat sit out at room temperature for 30 minutes before grilling.

Heat a cast-iron stove-top grill pan over medium-high heat. Remove the chops, discarding any leftover marinade. Do not wipe off the meat.

Add the pork chops to the pan; cook for 5 to 7 minutes, turning frequently, until firm and cooked through. To check, pierce with the tip of a sharp knife; it’s okay if the centre is faintly pink. Transfer them to a plate to rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

Serve the chops warm, passing the dipping sauce at the table, if desired.

Variation: To make the marinade without a food processor, mince the garlic and shallot, transfer to a large bowl, then mix with 3 tbs grated or minced lemon grass (or store-bought lemon grass paste) and the remaining ingredients.

Note: To make the dipping sauce, combine 1 tbs sugar (or 1 tbs plus 1½ tsp maple syrup), 1 tbs plus 1½ tsp fresh lime juice and ¼ cup warm water in a medium bowl.

Taste, and, as needed, add ¾ tsp sugar (or 1½ tsp maple syrup) and/or 1½ tsp lime juice; dilute with water if you go too far.

If there’s an unpleasant tart-bitter edge, add 2 tsp plain rice vinegar to fix the flavour.

Add 1 to 2 tbs fish sauce, aiming for a bold, forward finish that’s a little gutsy.

If you want heat, add 1 thinly sliced Thai or serrano chile, or 1 to 1½ tsp chile garlic sauce or sambal oelek; for pungency, add 1 small minced garlic clove. The yield is ½ to two-third cup.