Stay glowing and gorgeous

WHAT do black people do, exactly, when their melanated glow is lost to autumn and winter?

I considered the problem and realised that it’s not culturally resonant for us to tan (outside of a beach vacation) or self-tan. Some black women do both, of course, but it doesn’t leap casually to the mind as a solution. We’re not as likely to consider colour as something we need because we just have it!

And, of course, colour-ism has always been and still is a major feature of the black experience. Though many of us reject the notion that proximity to whiteness is preferable, societal racism and colour-ism (within and outside our community) have undoubtedly shaped our culture as it relates to skin colour – and purposely darkening our skin.

We’re obviously not here for any of that in 2019, though. And so in order to not be caught off-guard again on how to get a bronzed look, I consulted two experts:

Cheryl Burgess, a dermatologist in Washington, US, who is black and treats many black patients; and Saisha Beecham, a make-up artist whose clients include Logan Browning US gymnast Gabby Douglas, and Sanaa Lathan We found both skin care and make-up fixes for seasonal colour loss. (Yes, we’re calling it that.)

(Dear White People),

(The Cleveland Show).

Here’s why black skin looks dull in winter Some of the colour change you’re seeing can be attributed to the state of the skin. Ashiness is the outward sign, and dehydration is the offender. “Not lack of oil,” Burgess said. “We’re talking about the moisture content of the skin. And when we lose that moisture, our skin looks ashy. Even the lightest black skin can look ashy. It’s something that you just can’t see on white skin, but it’s there.”

Dehydration and dryness are different. Dry skin naturally under produces oil. Dehydrated skin lacks water and is more common in winter because the air is arid – indoors and outside. In those conditions, water in the skin evaporates easily, leaving it parched (and ashy).

In addition to the ashiness, dehydrated skin may feel tight or more sensitive and itchy than usual.

Correct ashiness with hydration

Humectants, like hyaluronic acid, draw water to the skin and trap it there. They appear in liquid formulas, like essences, and in lotions and creams that are emollient.

“Look at the formula in combination with the type of skin you have,” Burgess said.

An oily or acne-prone skin type should start with a less emollient hydrating formula, perhaps a lightweight gel that soaks in fast so you can layer on sunscreen or make-up.

If your skin is very dehydrated (or dry), you may also need to upgrade from your basic moisturiser.

And then there’s the lack of sun

We tan without trying during the warmer months.

Self-tanner delivers that extramelanated look you love, and it lasts a few days – a solid fix for monthslong seasonal colour loss.

“Now, most self-tanners work well on black skin,” Burgess said. “If you’d asked me that 10 years ago, I would have had a different answer. The tanning agent attaches to the outer layer of the skin, the keratin, and darkens the skin tone.”

First, you’ll want to ex-foliate your face to makes sure the self-tanner goes on evenly. Flaky or extra-dry spots will absorb excess tanner and look unnatural. Use a gentle, no-scrub mask that hydrates first. Wait a few minutes until your skin is dry.

Glow up with bronzer and face oil

Beecham has created many a noteworthy bronzed complexion. She has done actress Nia Long’s make-up for a decade and groomed Chadwick Boseman the Golden Globes.

She recommends using a winter foundation shade or tinted moisturiser that suits your lighter winter complexion and warming it up with bronzer.

For her own brown skin, she uses a flesh highlighting balm which has a subtle shimmer.

“It looks really beautiful on us. Sometimes I don’t feel like wearing foundation, and I’ll just apply it over my cheeks and around the perimeter of my face and blend it in. When

I do that, I always get so many compliments.”

Even though you’re covering a lot of area, use a light touch. You can always layer on more for a dramatically tanned look.

Beecham swears by face oil. Hers is a blend of 12 different plant oils and extracts.

“It brings life back to your skin, naturally,” she said.

“You know what would be perfect? Use that oil and then just put a bronzer around the perimeter of the face.”

Big Momma’s House

(T’Challa/Black Panther)

for