Knit a cardi like Princess Charlotte’s

Knit this adorable win­ter warmer in­spired by Princess Charlotte’s pretty cardi­gan

YOU (South Africa) - - CONTENTS -

MEA­SURE­MENTS To fit: 6-9 (9-12;12-18;18-24) months Ac­tual chest mea­sure­ment: 52 (55;58;62) cm Length from back neck: 30 (31;32;33) cm Sleeve length: 14 (16;19;21) cm

NOTE FOR MEA­SURE­MENTS The in­struc­tions are given for four sizes us­ing dif­fer­ent sized nee­dles; the 1st and 3rd sizes are worked us­ing the same size nee­dle and the 2nd and 4th sizes are worked us­ing the same size nee­dle. By work­ing in this way it means the stitch count and Fair Isle pat­terns can stay the same for ev­ery two sizes. Make sure you choose the size nee­dle that will give you the proper ten­sion as stated be­low. As ba­bies grow so fast, it’s not that im­por­tant to make a gar­ment in an ex­act size.

MA­TE­RI­ALS

2 x 50g balls of Kis­met Soft & Gen­tle Baby DK in Pale Le­mon shade BB2 (MC)

1 x 50g ball of Kis­met Soft & Gen­tle Baby DK in Op­ti­cal White shade BB4 (A) and Pale Blue shade BB5 (B)

1 x 50g ball of Elle Fam­ily Knit Clas­sic DK in Claret shade 040 (C)

1 pair of 3,5mm knit­ting nee­dles and a 3,5mm cir­cu­lar nee­dle for 1st and 3rd sizes 1 pair of 4mm knit­ting nee­dles and a 4mm cir­cu­lar nee­dle for 2nd and 4th sizes 2 stitch hold­ers or lengths of scrap yarn 4-6 but­tons (de­cide how many you'll need ac­cord­ing to the size of but­ton) Ta­pes­try nee­dle Dress­mak­ing pins

TEN­SION 24 sts and 34 rows to 10cm mea­sured over st st us­ing 3,5mm Ns. 22 sts and 28 rows to 10cm mea­sured over st st us­ing 4mm Ns.

NOTE In­struc­tions are given for the small­est size with the larger sizes in brack­ets ( ). Where one set of fig­ures is given it ap­plies to all sizes.

BE­FORE YOU BE­GIN This is a com­pli­cated pat­tern and it's ad­vis­able that you read through the in­struc­tions with all the notes, es­pe­cially when work­ing the yoke sec­tion of the gar­ment while fol­low­ing the chart. Use a pen­cil to cir­cle the size you wish to make through­out.

TO KNIT BACK AND FRONTS Note: this cardi­gan is worked start­ing at the neck and work­ing down­wards, work­ing back­wards and for­wards in rows us­ing a pair of Ns.

NECK­BAND Us­ing 3,5mm (4mm; 3,5mm; 4mm) Ns and MC, c/on 70 (70;86;86) sts. Work in rib as folls: 1st row (RS): * k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. 2nd row: p2, * k2, p2; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form the rib patt. Work 5 more rows in rib patt, end­ing with a RS row. Next row: p. Now work the yoke de­sign, foll the chart.

SPE­CIAL NOTES FOR YOKE

When there are too many sts to work com­fort­ably on the Ns, change to a cir­cu­lar N of the same size, still work­ing back­wards and for­wards in rows.

Ev­ery square on the chart rep­re­sents one stitch. Read the chart from right to left for ev­ery RS row and left to right for ev­ery WS row. Tick off each row as you com­plete it. Join in the colours as re­quired. When work­ing in jacquard pat­tern, to avoid holes form­ing in your work, at ev­ery colour change on ev­ery row the yarn from the last stitch must pass over the yarn to be used for the next stitch.

When work­ing in Fair Isle pat­tern, reg­u­larly pass the yarn and twist it over the yarn not in use ev­ery sec­ond or third stitch at the back of the work to form a small loop. Try to work loosely over this sec­tion so the mo­tifs don’t pull out of shape.

The row marked “setup row” is the purl row you worked at the end of the neck­band.

Be sure to re­peat each brack­eted sec­tion four times as you work across the rows, and be sure also to space in­creases across each sec­tion with­out lin­ing them up ver­ti­cally, as by lin­ing the in­creases up along the red “fault lines” of the pat­tern it will re­sult in ugly and ob­vi­ous in­crease “seams”.

The black wedge sec­tions on the chart in­di­cate “no stitches” – just jump across these ar­eas to the next stitch in the row.

For the flower pat­tern worked in colour C only, do not re­peat each brack­eted sec­tion ex­actly as pic­tured. Rather, keep the eight­stitch re­peat of the flow­ers con­tin­u­ous across these two rows. You also need to work in the re­quired in­creases as you work, so added at­ten­tion is needed in this sec­tion.

For the rest of the chart, you can work the re­peats ex­actly as pic­tured.

The blocks with­out colour are knit­ted in white (colour A). If you don’t want to knit in the heads and legs of the sheep, em­broi­der them af­ter­wards us­ing the Swiss darn­ing method and colour C (the sheep should face to­wards the front band on each side). Work the sheep’s body in garter stitch. If you’re a lit­tle ner­vous about knit­ting the sheep in garter stitch, you can knit them in st st. This will af­fect only the tex­ture de­tail. If you want to try other ways of adding tex­ture, you could try bouclé yarn or some­thing fluffy like an­gora.

YOKE Now foll the chart, start­ing from row 1, be­gin­ning and end­ing the row as in­di­cated at the lower edge of the chart for the size you re­quire. Make sure you work the re­peats that are given in brack­ets as in­di­cated at the top of the chart. At the same time as work­ing the Fair Isle and jacquard pat­terns you must work incs across the row. All incs are worked by M1 (see ab­bre­vi­a­tions on next page). The inc sts are out­lined with a red “stepped” line. For ex­am­ple, on the 1st row you’ll need to work 2 inc sts for each of the four re­peats on each side of the work, so that in to­tal 16 sts have been inc in the row. Now work 4 rows straight on these 86 (86; 102;102) sts. The next set of incs are placed on the 5th row and as be­fore you’ll need to work 2 inc sts for each of the four re­peats on each side of work, so that in to­tal an­other 16 sts have been inc in the row [102 (102;118;118) sts]. Cont inc the re­quired num­ber of sts as set on the chart on the cor­rect row – you should have worked a to­tal of 136 inc sts when the 34th row of the chart has been com­pleted and you should have 206 (206;222;222) sts on your Ns. Di­vide for sleeves Next row (RS): k29 (29;33;33) sts for right front, place the next 44 (44;46;46) sts on a st holder or length of scrap yarn for first sleeve, k60 (60;64;64) sts for back, place 44 (44;46;46) sts on a st holder or length of scrap yarn for sec­ond sleeve, k29 (29; 33;33) sts for left front. Change from the cir­cu­lar N to a pair of knit­ting Ns of the same size. Work the left front, back and right front in one piece, work­ing back­wards and for­wards in rows as be­fore. By work­ing this sec­tion in one piece it will avoid sew­ing up the side seams at the mak­ing up stage. Start­ing with a p row and us­ing MC, work in st st across these 118 (118;130;130) sts un­til work mea­sures 27 (28;29;30) cm from the beg, end­ing with a RS row. Join in colour C and work 2 rows in st st. Fas­ten off colour C. Work 1 more row in st st us­ing MC. Start­ing with a WS row, work in rib as given for neck­band for 7 rows. C/off all sts rib­wise.

SLEEVES Re­turn to the 44 (44;46;46) sts held on st holder or scrap yarn for one sleeve and sl onto 3,5mm (4mm; 3,5mm; 4mm) Ns. Join in MC. Start­ing with a k row, work 9 (9;11;11) rows straight in st st. Next row (WS): dec 1 st at each end of row [42 (42;44;44) sts]. Rep these 10 (10;12;12) rows twice more [38 (38;40;40) sts]. Work 7 (7;11;11) more rows straight on these sts. Join in C and work 2 rows with this colour, fas­ten off C. Work 1 more row with MC. Work in rib as folls: 1st row (RS): * k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 (2;0;0) sts k2 (2;0;0). 2nd row: p2 (2;0;0), * k2, p2; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form the rib patt. Work 5 more rows in rib patt, end­ing with a RS row. C/off all sts rib­wise. Rep for sec­ond sleeve.

LEFT FRONT BAND Us­ing 3,5mm (4mm; 3,5mm; 4mm) Ns and MC, pick up and k 3 sts for ev­ery 4 rows along the left front edge. Pick up a to­tal num­ber that’s di­vis­i­ble by 4 so you can work the rib patt eas­ily. Start­ing with a WS row, work 8 rows in k2, p2 rib. C/off all sts rib­wise.

RIGHT FRONT BAND De­cide how many but­tons you wish to use. Mark the po­si­tion of the but­ton­holes on the left front band us­ing dress­maker’s pins, plac­ing the first pin 4 (4;6;6) sts from the lower edge and the last pin 6 sts from the top of the neck­band. Space the re­main­ing pins evenly up the band. Pick up the same num­ber of sts along the right front edge as picked up on the left front edge. Start­ing with a WS row, work 3 rows in k2, p2 rib. But­ton­hole row (RS): rib 4 (4;6;6) sts, * yo, k2 tog, work in rib to the place you’d like the next but­ton­hole, rep from * to the last 6 sts on row, k2 tog, yo, rib 4 sts. Work 4 more rows in k2, p2 rib. C/off all sts rib­wise.

TO MAKE UP

Darn in all the loose ends of yarn at back of work and cut away any ex­cess yarns care­fully. Us­ing lad­der stitch, sew up the sleeve seams. Lay out the gar­ment flat, cover with a cloth and press very lightly with a cool iron, mak­ing sure you don’t flat­ten the stitches.

Sew on the but­tons to the but­ton band to cor­re­spond with but­ton­holes.

Char­lotte in the sheep cardi­gan she wore on her sec­ond birth­day last year. Stocks of the adorable knit sold out in Bri­tish stores im­me­di­ately, but we’ve found a sim­i­lar pat­tern so you can make one for your cu­tie. It uses a com­bi­na­tion of Fair Isle and...

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