Knit a cardi like Princess Charlotte’s
Knit this adorable winter warmer inspired by Princess Charlotte’s pretty cardigan
MEASUREMENTS To fit: 6-9 (9-12;12-18;18-24) months Actual chest measurement: 52 (55;58;62) cm Length from back neck: 30 (31;32;33) cm Sleeve length: 14 (16;19;21) cm
NOTE FOR MEASUREMENTS The instructions are given for four sizes using different sized needles; the 1st and 3rd sizes are worked using the same size needle and the 2nd and 4th sizes are worked using the same size needle. By working in this way it means the stitch count and Fair Isle patterns can stay the same for every two sizes. Make sure you choose the size needle that will give you the proper tension as stated below. As babies grow so fast, it’s not that important to make a garment in an exact size.
2 x 50g balls of Kismet Soft & Gentle Baby DK in Pale Lemon shade BB2 (MC)
1 x 50g ball of Kismet Soft & Gentle Baby DK in Optical White shade BB4 (A) and Pale Blue shade BB5 (B)
1 x 50g ball of Elle Family Knit Classic DK in Claret shade 040 (C)
1 pair of 3,5mm knitting needles and a 3,5mm circular needle for 1st and 3rd sizes 1 pair of 4mm knitting needles and a 4mm circular needle for 2nd and 4th sizes 2 stitch holders or lengths of scrap yarn 4-6 buttons (decide how many you'll need according to the size of button) Tapestry needle Dressmaking pins
TENSION 24 sts and 34 rows to 10cm measured over st st using 3,5mm Ns. 22 sts and 28 rows to 10cm measured over st st using 4mm Ns.
NOTE Instructions are given for the smallest size with the larger sizes in brackets ( ). Where one set of figures is given it applies to all sizes.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN This is a complicated pattern and it's advisable that you read through the instructions with all the notes, especially when working the yoke section of the garment while following the chart. Use a pencil to circle the size you wish to make throughout.
TO KNIT BACK AND FRONTS Note: this cardigan is worked starting at the neck and working downwards, working backwards and forwards in rows using a pair of Ns.
NECKBAND Using 3,5mm (4mm; 3,5mm; 4mm) Ns and MC, c/on 70 (70;86;86) sts. Work in rib as folls: 1st row (RS): * k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. 2nd row: p2, * k2, p2; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form the rib patt. Work 5 more rows in rib patt, ending with a RS row. Next row: p. Now work the yoke design, foll the chart.
SPECIAL NOTES FOR YOKE
When there are too many sts to work comfortably on the Ns, change to a circular N of the same size, still working backwards and forwards in rows.
Every square on the chart represents one stitch. Read the chart from right to left for every RS row and left to right for every WS row. Tick off each row as you complete it. Join in the colours as required. When working in jacquard pattern, to avoid holes forming in your work, at every colour change on every row the yarn from the last stitch must pass over the yarn to be used for the next stitch.
When working in Fair Isle pattern, regularly pass the yarn and twist it over the yarn not in use every second or third stitch at the back of the work to form a small loop. Try to work loosely over this section so the motifs don’t pull out of shape.
The row marked “setup row” is the purl row you worked at the end of the neckband.
Be sure to repeat each bracketed section four times as you work across the rows, and be sure also to space increases across each section without lining them up vertically, as by lining the increases up along the red “fault lines” of the pattern it will result in ugly and obvious increase “seams”.
The black wedge sections on the chart indicate “no stitches” – just jump across these areas to the next stitch in the row.
For the flower pattern worked in colour C only, do not repeat each bracketed section exactly as pictured. Rather, keep the eightstitch repeat of the flowers continuous across these two rows. You also need to work in the required increases as you work, so added attention is needed in this section.
For the rest of the chart, you can work the repeats exactly as pictured.
The blocks without colour are knitted in white (colour A). If you don’t want to knit in the heads and legs of the sheep, embroider them afterwards using the Swiss darning method and colour C (the sheep should face towards the front band on each side). Work the sheep’s body in garter stitch. If you’re a little nervous about knitting the sheep in garter stitch, you can knit them in st st. This will affect only the texture detail. If you want to try other ways of adding texture, you could try bouclé yarn or something fluffy like angora.
YOKE Now foll the chart, starting from row 1, beginning and ending the row as indicated at the lower edge of the chart for the size you require. Make sure you work the repeats that are given in brackets as indicated at the top of the chart. At the same time as working the Fair Isle and jacquard patterns you must work incs across the row. All incs are worked by M1 (see abbreviations on next page). The inc sts are outlined with a red “stepped” line. For example, on the 1st row you’ll need to work 2 inc sts for each of the four repeats on each side of the work, so that in total 16 sts have been inc in the row. Now work 4 rows straight on these 86 (86; 102;102) sts. The next set of incs are placed on the 5th row and as before you’ll need to work 2 inc sts for each of the four repeats on each side of work, so that in total another 16 sts have been inc in the row [102 (102;118;118) sts]. Cont inc the required number of sts as set on the chart on the correct row – you should have worked a total of 136 inc sts when the 34th row of the chart has been completed and you should have 206 (206;222;222) sts on your Ns. Divide for sleeves Next row (RS): k29 (29;33;33) sts for right front, place the next 44 (44;46;46) sts on a st holder or length of scrap yarn for first sleeve, k60 (60;64;64) sts for back, place 44 (44;46;46) sts on a st holder or length of scrap yarn for second sleeve, k29 (29; 33;33) sts for left front. Change from the circular N to a pair of knitting Ns of the same size. Work the left front, back and right front in one piece, working backwards and forwards in rows as before. By working this section in one piece it will avoid sewing up the side seams at the making up stage. Starting with a p row and using MC, work in st st across these 118 (118;130;130) sts until work measures 27 (28;29;30) cm from the beg, ending with a RS row. Join in colour C and work 2 rows in st st. Fasten off colour C. Work 1 more row in st st using MC. Starting with a WS row, work in rib as given for neckband for 7 rows. C/off all sts ribwise.
SLEEVES Return to the 44 (44;46;46) sts held on st holder or scrap yarn for one sleeve and sl onto 3,5mm (4mm; 3,5mm; 4mm) Ns. Join in MC. Starting with a k row, work 9 (9;11;11) rows straight in st st. Next row (WS): dec 1 st at each end of row [42 (42;44;44) sts]. Rep these 10 (10;12;12) rows twice more [38 (38;40;40) sts]. Work 7 (7;11;11) more rows straight on these sts. Join in C and work 2 rows with this colour, fasten off C. Work 1 more row with MC. Work in rib as folls: 1st row (RS): * k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 (2;0;0) sts k2 (2;0;0). 2nd row: p2 (2;0;0), * k2, p2; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form the rib patt. Work 5 more rows in rib patt, ending with a RS row. C/off all sts ribwise. Rep for second sleeve.
LEFT FRONT BAND Using 3,5mm (4mm; 3,5mm; 4mm) Ns and MC, pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rows along the left front edge. Pick up a total number that’s divisible by 4 so you can work the rib patt easily. Starting with a WS row, work 8 rows in k2, p2 rib. C/off all sts ribwise.
RIGHT FRONT BAND Decide how many buttons you wish to use. Mark the position of the buttonholes on the left front band using dressmaker’s pins, placing the first pin 4 (4;6;6) sts from the lower edge and the last pin 6 sts from the top of the neckband. Space the remaining pins evenly up the band. Pick up the same number of sts along the right front edge as picked up on the left front edge. Starting with a WS row, work 3 rows in k2, p2 rib. Buttonhole row (RS): rib 4 (4;6;6) sts, * yo, k2 tog, work in rib to the place you’d like the next buttonhole, rep from * to the last 6 sts on row, k2 tog, yo, rib 4 sts. Work 4 more rows in k2, p2 rib. C/off all sts ribwise.
TO MAKE UP
Darn in all the loose ends of yarn at back of work and cut away any excess yarns carefully. Using ladder stitch, sew up the sleeve seams. Lay out the garment flat, cover with a cloth and press very lightly with a cool iron, making sure you don’t flatten the stitches.
Sew on the buttons to the button band to correspond with buttonholes.
Charlotte in the sheep cardigan she wore on her second birthday last year. Stocks of the adorable knit sold out in British stores immediately, but we’ve found a similar pattern so you can make one for your cutie. It uses a combination of Fair Isle and...