Oddly enhancing crumbling ruins
WITHOUT actually trespassing, I clambered up the inside wall of what I can only describe as the wreck of a building, a disintegrating stone shell which once must have been magnificent.
I clung tenaciously to a protruding sill and gazed at the view from an Arabian style window. On the horizon, far in the distance, I could clearly see the Cabo de las Huertas promontory at Albufereta near Alicante. Had it been a little less hazy, I might even have had a view of the Santa Pola, coastline too.
I dropped back to ground level, crunched my way for a few yards over broken rock and rubble to peer through another ‘ventana’ through which I was able to focus on Benidorm and its offshore islet.
Looking inland probably afforded me with the best view though, with Puig Campaña towering majestically on the seaward face of the Sierra Aitana.
My elevated vantage point was an abandoned ‘folly’ on a rocky mound at Paraiso just south of Villajoyosa. It could quite reasonably be described as the most crumbling relic in Alicante province, despite the fact that it is hardly historic or even an ancient building.
After nosing around, apart from discovering that it was the property of a Dr Esquerdo, a rather colourful and well known Villajoyosa character, I learned little else about this odd ruin (the building not the medico) which looks to be of Moorish origin from one aspect and sort of Romanish from another. The main building appears to have Arab leanings too, whilst its keep-like tower is architecturally mixed with a crenelated roof - or what remained of a roof.
I first explored the place casually and its renovated stone Rhenish-style lookout tower on the cliff edge over 20 years ago.
Latterly it fell more into dilapidation yet was still quite a landmark. Recently the outside of the tower has been restored and Villajoyosa council announced in January they have plans to restore the ‘folly’ known locally as Villa Giacomina and its gardens for public use with work due to commence before the end of this year.
There are many derelict buildings, ruins and relics around today, even on our doorsteps. Some, like the Paraiso ‘folly,’ were left to crumble but others have found new uses after restoration and renovation. Villa Gadea at La Olla, Altea is an example.
This rather delightful building was left neglected and fell into ruins before eventually being restored a few years ago and transformed into an international culture centre with the blessing and support of UNESCO. It is flanked by a hotel. Villa Gadea – locally known as 'The House of Angels' was virtually rebuilt, the rooftop cupola artistically glazed and the palm tree-lined drive resurfaced.
Last time I visited the lovely old mansion, I enjoyed browsing around an exhibition of old musical instruments from all over the world. Having lived barely a couple of hundred metres away from the place for 10 years, I found the transition from ruin to museum very satisfying.
Unfortunately though, Villa Gadea is no longer a landmark except from the seaward approach. The march of progress is such that this historic building, which once was a holiday haven for kings, religious dignitaries and sundry celebrities, is now almost surrounded by modern urban development.
Several of the coastal castles and towers have been or are still being restored. Denia castle was renovated and is now a museum, most of the observation towers, like the one in Moraira have also been rejuvenated and Alicante city’s own magnificent landmark, Santa Bárbara castle has had a facelift. This building now houses a selection of historic relics.
At the southern end of the Vinalopo ‘Castles Route’ Santa Bárbara is the one fortification now in excellent state of repair. Other castles en route to Albacete are either shell like hulks or have been basically ‘made safe’.
However, some of the most historically interesting ruins in the province flank this road, at such places as Monforte, Novelda, Petrer, Elda, Sax, Villena and Biar. Castles and ruins draw me as surely as a magnet attracts metal.
I have also explored Lucentum, Alicante’s original Roman city and been impressed at the archaeological unearthing of these ruins, which are virtually surrounded by modern highrise blocks.
I have also scrabbled around windmill ruins at La Manga but I get the most pleasure from ‘discovering’ overgrown and unsung ruins in the hinterland.
Roaming through the Aitana, Aixorta and Bernia sierras, I have discovered all manner of ancient ruins. Ruins of neveras (primitive underground ancient ice boxes), ruins of antique wells, hunting towers and more. It could be that I would like to do my exploring all over again. Who knows?