Gilet’s Franciscan Monastery
"SEVEN green hills - a Roman image - in the northern reaches of Pais Valencia are the setting for the Santo Espíritu del Monte Franciscan monastery. That they are more than just green perhaps, amidst towering pines and rusty terracotta red rocks that colourfully blend perhaps gives them an advantage over the original. Here mimosa and oleander bloom in profusion proudly beneath an azure sky. Squirrels thrive and play hide and seek as they nibble seeds from life-preserving pine cones. "
Poetic though this is, I cannot claim it as my words. They were part of the introduction to a descriptive article describing the monastery of Santo Espiritu del Monte, by the minder of this Franciscan retreat, Fr. Jose M. Barrachina, Friar Barrachina who writes in Latin influenced Castillian, with occasional slips into Valencian was my only living contact when I came across this breathtakingly beautiful place.
Not a million miles from Sagunto, this truly was a retreat. In Gilet - the nearest urban settlement, I checked with the ‘ayuntamiento’ (town hall) to find nothing more than a basic brochure about the local scene dismissed this historical religious college in a mere five short lines.
However, Monasterio de Santo Espíritu del Monte is a much-revered Christian tourist attraction. In contrast to its laidback local profile, it boasts an impressive, tree shady picnic area flanked by a children's adventure playground.
Bizarrely, or perhaps quixotically, it has a huge car park with accommodation for dozens of tourist coaches. Word of mouth must be the keystone to publicity here!
Fr. Barrachina's near immortal lines liken the Castellon ‘Seven Hills’ to its Roman counterpart, echoing (he claims) with Holy Ghost-like similarities.
He confides that this was the inspiration behind naming the monastery ‘Monester de Sant Esperit.’
Whatever his opinions, the place has an aura of tranquillity, situated as it is at the upper reaches of a valley within the 'Seven Hills' of Muntanya de Felix and de la Creu, la Cova de Braulio, los penyes de el Xocainet, el Pico de l'Aguila and Muntanya del Tocino,
The monastery has a modern annex which houses a spiritual and cultural centre. The "Real College of Missionaries of Santo Espíritu del Monte" is a place where 'silent' Franciscan missionaries prepare themselves for their vocation of 'seeking out' men in need of spiritual rebirth.
It was certainly silent when I was there despite the fact that a coach load of 'pilgrims' were visiting.
Valencian glazed tiles - the 'Way of the Cross' form part of the protective walls, which surround a small 18th century plaza in front of the edifice.
Inside the building is a treasure trove of Valencian culture albeit with adventurous relics reflecting the Franciscan missionary scholars’ excursions.
The temple has a Plateresque altarpiece, dating back to when construction of the church began in 1681.
Paintings by Juan de Juanes or his disciples - plus panels by the illustrious Miguel Juan Porta are an integral part of the monastery's history. Fray Margil of this monastery, met an untimely end whilst on missionary work in Central America. He was murdered by the very Mexican natives he was trying to convert.
There are numerous works of art here. One is the 'Cristo de Vergara,' a Baroque 18th century sculpture created on request in 1749 by Ignacio.
This presides over the church's high choir. Rather special is the chapel of ‘La Virgen de Gracia’ which has above its altar - a Paolo Mattel painting which actually seems to exude compassion and tenderness. Created in 1727, it portrays the patron saint of the "Real Monasterio y Colegio de Misioneros'' at Santo Espíritu del Monte.
For tourists who enjoy the ‘off the beaten tracks’ adventures the Santo Espíritu monastery is a must because it sits quietly in the shade of a low sierra and is approached from
the Valencia road by tall elegant evergreen trees which give it a peaceful ambience.
Flanking the route is a children’s play park despite the fact that the actual building is still active with the training of missionaries.
For visitors, largely arriving by pre-organised coaches and cars, there is a comfortable parking area set back from the building that has to be approached on foot.
This fairly short approach is
well worth the trek when one is led into a cool interior, which is something of a museum in its own right.
Compact by comparison to other religious edifices in the surrounding countryside I found it relaxing to stroll around and examine its pictures and memorabilia. It was quite a contrast to much of the Mediterranean territory I had been travelling through en route to Peñiscola where I intended staying overnight.