Teruel's Maestrazgo - the towns
IN recent weeks we have been looking at walks in the Maestrazgo area in Teruel province – a ‘region’ which extends into neighbouring Castellón. The good news (or possibly bad news, if you don’t have access to a car) is that there is plenty more to come.
This week it is the turn of the towns/villages where visitors can base themselves in order to embark on the walks. My first port of call was Mora de Rubielos – not to be confused with nearby Rubielos de Mora! If you were to drive through this small town on the A-228 you probably wouldn’t be very impressed. However, it is worthy of much closer inspection, as – off the rather uninviting main thoroughfare – there are small enclaves which are rich in history.
The most obvious place of interest is the strapping 14th century castle which rises above all the other buildings around it. The influence of the Knights Templar – which can still be seen all over the area which is named after them – is found here too. The order of devout Christians founded in Jerusalem after the First Crusade, between the years 1118 and 1119, gained enormous financial influence and power before Pope Clement V reluctantly dissolved them in 1312.
The group’s property and monetary assets were given to a rival order, the Knights Hospitallers. Local historians explain that their ‘maestro’ (master), Juan Fernández de Heredia, managed to inherit land and he bought Mora de Rubielos soon afterwards and built the formidable fortress, which can be visited via the tourist office (www.moraderub ielos.com/index.php/que-ver/ oficina-de-turismo)
Nearby is the 14th century Santa María la Mayor church, which backs onto the wonderful Plaza de la Raza and the river. A stroll around these monuments – and next to the town walls and properties along the river – is an enjoyable way to while away a few hours.
Also worth mentioning is the ‘truffle’ – the so-called black gold of the area, due to its high market price. They are not to everyone’s liking. But, as they are a local speciality, it is worth indulging if you have the time and means. There is even a hotel in Mora named after the delicacy – La Trufa Negra, which does special menus with truffles, with more information at www.latrufanegra.com
A luxury experience with the truffle is offered at the rural hotel, Masia la Torre, which is outside the town. More information at https://masiala torre.es
There are also budget options for accommodation (without truffles) which can be found via www.booking.com
The journey through the heart of the Maestrazgo to our next destination – Cantavieja – is a spectacular one. It should also be noted that these roads will be covered in snow during the winter and cold weather.
It's the A-228 to Alcalá de la Selva, the starting point of two of the walks already charted on this page. Continue on the A228 to the Allepuz junction, where it’s a right turn to get on the A-226, the wonderful high mountain road which leads to Cantavieja (rather confusingly this page will be returning to walks in Allepuz in a couple of weeks – not before, because I haven’t been yet).
Cantavieja occupies a lofty position on a narrow strip of land, which juts out into the void. It’s a terrific village/town which offers more fantastic walking. The Templars were here too, finally vanquished following an eight-month siege in 1307 which saw much of their castle destroyed, although the walls and a section that was converted into a hermitage can still be visited.
The wonderful Plaza Porticada – the porticoed or arcaded square – forms part of a stroll through the historic section of the town leading to the old Templar fort and the walls, where there are fantastic views back over Cantavieja.
There are truffles here too – as well as other delights. I stayed at the Casa Sara B&B in the old town, where the helpful owner provides leaflets and information about the town. This and other options can be perused via booking.com