Rastro, bodegas and cyclists!
A FAVOURITE day trip for many, especially those who live in the region, is Jalón – or Xaló in Valencian, which lies in the Jalón Valley, also known as the
Vall de Pop. Over the next month or so it will attract thousands of visitors, flocking to see the almond and cherry blossom, creating a carpet of white and pink as far as the eye can see – a real picture postcard opportunity.
Mind you, I have seen coaches coming from as far away as Torrevieja, so a leisurely half an hour drive from the Benidorm area is an enviable treat.
For those who have the rastro/flea market/charity shop bug and love to haggle for a bargain, then Saturday is your day for Jalón as it hosts a massive rastro – obviously not when it rains though! You will find an eclectic range of items on the stalls - some specialising in one particular item, such as lamps, china, records or knives, while others are a typical reflection of a garage clear-out with a real hotchpotch of items.
Walking about recently I can’t imagine how long it takes the stallholders to put everything out each week - carefully unwrapping delicate crystal glasses or ornaments and possibly having to do the same again come closing time, which is around 14.30ish. I suppose they stay as long as there are people about really, but by then most are heading off for lunch, so it is a natural end to the day.
The rastro is pretty easy to find – if you drive, you cannot possibly miss it or the crowds heading towards it. However, trying to find somewhere to park is a completely different kettle of fish. There is a glut of ‘car parks’ open every Saturday, or rather a patch of derelict land with a hand-painted board stating €1.50 or so to park there – and there is no shortage of customers. You can park for free on the streets, if you can find a spot that is, but I guess most are taken by locals who would otherwise park in the very car park where the rastro is taking place.
Jalón is a small village, with a little over 2,900 residents, many of whom are British – you will notice many bars and cafés with everything written in English and serving traditional English fare, but it is most famous for its wine, in particular its moscatel and full bodied reds. There are two bodegas by the rastro, the big pink ‘Bodega Xaló’ directly opposite and just before Mas y Mas there is a smaller one called ‘Bodegas Riko’. PreCovid days you could sample the wines, however they did away with that and haven’t brought it back – a shame as it was very popular, but I imagine they are saving a fortune.
The wine was slightly cheaper at Riko - €1.40 a litre, whilst €1.65 at the bigger Xaló one.
Many a time I have witnessed people coming out carrying 10 five-litre bottles with a huge grin on their faces – in the old days, also with pink flushed cheeks from all the tastings. However, that is the price if you bring your own containers (start saving those 5L water bottles) and I believe that they charge a 50c premium for their plastic bottles, but even so, it’s still an absolute bargain.
Often you will see the restauranteurs coming in and filling up their own 25 litre containers from the vats - a bit like filling your car up with petrol… but cheaper! You can understand why all the local restaurants can afford to include wine in their menu prices - often served in a carafe or terracotta jug.
Three of my favourite restaurants in the area are Pepe’s, La Solana and Verdi Vent, a little further up, heading into the mountains - it is very rustic but everyone I have taken has thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Verdi Vent is only open at lunchtime as there are no lights on the very windy road up and with a sheer drop down one side, understandable.
The area is also especially popular with cyclists and walking groups, with six signposted routes. The tourist information office has produced a colour booklet and downloadable QR code with distances, elevation and estimated completion time.
There are currently so many international cycling teams in the area that you are almost guaranteed to be stuck behind a group of lycra-clad cyclists, riding three abreast with no chance of overtaking, so just enjoy the scenery rather than getting wound up.