Sierra del Cadí - a ridge too far (4)
LAST week I’d managed to get off the Sierra Cabirolera ridge in the Cadí-Moixeró natural park, after a series of mishaps had left me stranded at night above 2,500 metres.
With the worst seemingly over, I’d reached the pine woods on the mountain slope, only to find that I’d strayed into the territory of two dogs which were guarding a flock of mountain sheep.
The expression ‘their bark is worse than their bite’ does sometimes hold true. And I am very pleased to report that this was the case here. I was terrified at first, with the snarling animals circling, and I’m sure they could smell my fear. But it quickly became apparent that they were not going to attack.
They just wanted me away from their flock. And I was very happy to oblige them. I didn’t run, but growls certainly put a spring in my step. Once I was across the clearing where the sheep were grazing, they calmed down – as did I.
There was now a decision to be made. The path appeared to be descending towards a gulley on the left. However, I’d had my fill of ravines. After consulting the map, I decided to keep right to descend through the trees, which I thought would be easier and would allow me to find a spot to get some sleep for the remainder of the night. As it turned out, I should have gone left (the gulley route) and would have had a much quicker walk to the village of Cornellana, saving myself a lot of tree trouble.
Soon I found a likely pine, with very low branches for protection from the wind and a covering of pine needles to lie on. I was able to get comfortable under the tree but only managed about 20 minutes shut-eye before I woke up feeling extremely cold and knowing that I would have to get moving again.
I carried on descending through the trees. There was no path, but at this height the forest was not too dense. After another hour, I found a warmer, sheltered spot under a pine tree. It was around 04.00 and I slept like a baby.
I had got so comfortable that I struggled to move at dawn. It was set to be another warm day and I knew I had to get going. On the positive front, I had a clear view of the village below. However, I quickly realised that I had strayed a long way from the proper path during the night.
It took two pain-staking hours to get through the thicket of pines and bushes to reach a track which descended to Cornellana. Emerging out of the blanket of trees, slightly battered and very unkempt, my thoughts were consumed by a fantasy of the order that I would be placing at the village bar for coffee and breakfast.
The hamlet was made up of strapping stone homes, designed to keep out snow and the winter chill, as well as providing relief from the summer heat. I stopped outside one of old properties which was being
renovated. A man emerged from behind a thick wooden gate and didn’t show any surprise at my appearance.
However, he was not the bearer of good news. The village had no bar, he said. Nor a shop. The nearest would be in Fornols, in the opposite direction to the spot where I’d left my car.
It was a blow but at least the village had a drinking fountain so I was able to fill a bottle for the remainder of my trek.
It was at least 12km to the Coll de Jovell pass, with around 600 metres of ascent. It was on a wide track, so easy walking but my legs were not working well after all the action the previous day. The last few kilometres were agony, particularly as the heat of the day was building.
Up at the grassy pass, I collapsed under a shady tree for 20 minutes of rest and recuperation. From there it was just 3km downhill to Josa de Cadí, where my car was waiting. It had turned into a 28-hour walk – and one that I will remember for a long time.
One point that I should make is that the Sierra Cabirolera ridge is a magnificent spot to visit. I do hope that you are not put off by my experience (!). In hindsight, I can say that the best place to start a walk is the village of Cornellana, taking the PR C-226 footpath to the point on the map marked as Bacanella. Then turn off right on the PR C-122 path to make for the Prat Mayor plateau (where you may find grazing sheep!), and continue on the same footpath to reach the wide ridge and the series of summits that stretch for nearly 12km.
You would return by the same footpath, which makes use of white/yellow waymarks.