Le Soleil, Moraira

By Gemma Mazurke The changing colours of the leaves means one thing and one thing only... Well, to a foodie it does. It means that favoured restaurants will be changing their à-la-cartes to reflect the season's bounty.

One restaurant I always keep my eye on is Le Soleil in Moraira. A restaurant whose menu truly embraces the time of year, using seasonal produce in each and every dish, and using it in unusual and inventive ways.

Tucked a stone's throw from the sea front, even with the cold winds gusting, the restaurant is a lovely setting for a cozy tete-a-tete, or a jubilant place to dine with friends.

We chose to eat during the day, and while there is a 'menú del día' running from 12.30 until 15.00, one that consists of three courses and a glass of wine for only €17.95, we selected our meals from the à-lacarte.

My partner chose to eat roasted scallops that were perfect buttery contrasts to the black pudding, pancetta and cauliflower puree with which they were served.

The salty pancetta with the moreish black pudding were gorgeous on their own. Combine it with the clean, earthy taste of cauliflower, and each bite was truly a morsel to savour.

I chose the pan-fried quail with pancetta, broad beans, pesto crisps and sweet masala jus. It was the first time I'd tried quail, and what an introduction!

The succulent meat, combined with the sweet broad beans and masala jus were just a gorgeous combination. Add to it those pesto crisps, and wow! Each thin slither of pesto packed a real punch.

Chargrilled duck breast with mustard and candied kumquats, rosti potato and pureed carrots was my choice for the main meal. Duck so tender with that guiltiest of pleasures - duck fat-combined with those candied kumquats - I can honestly say, I've never tasted such a mixture before, but I'm glad I did.

Those kumquats were ubersweet, but when added to the juicy duck breast, top it off with some of the rosti and a little of the carrot puree, you were left with something that hit the perfect note between sweet and savoury. A complex dish that really made you think about the flavours.

My partner selected the chargrilled sirloin of beef with saute potatoes, lemon and thyme butter, and roasted baby tomatoes. Let me just say, the surprising star of the show was the lemon and thyme butter.

Of course, the steak was beautiful, and cooked to a perfect medium-rare, but that juicy burst of lemon, with the herbal tang of thyme was just a masterpiece. Juicy steak, a slither of that gorgeous butter, with baby tomatoes that popped with flavor; this takes steaks to another level.

Admittedly, after the starter and such a beautiful main meal, we were stuffed. However, Le Soleil never disappoints with its desserts, and this was no different.

You can always rely on them to have at least one dish on the dessert card that will make you curious. In this instance, there are two! The lemon zabaglione, and the mango and red berry soup, with green apple sorbet and black pepper crystals.

I was adventurous, and went for the latter, my partner had the banana, Baileys and white chocolate cheesecake.

Now, let me say this; that cheesecake was the best I've ever tasted. Seriously good. The base was thick and crunchy, sweet yet salty. And the topping was just to die for. Like silk, it literally melted on the tongue.

There was a beautiful creaminess that came from the banana, white chocolate and the Baileys, and just made it a truly delicious dessert. The soup was very unusual, borderline strange-but in the best possible way. It wasn't at all how I expected, and so much better because of it.

Sat in the centre of the dish, was a bright green scoop of sour green apple sorbet. Surrounding it was a literal soup. Mango in all its juicy deliciousness. But, in the mix, were small cubes of apple, juicy raspberries and blackberries. Then, to top it off, the black pepper crystals. Shards of caramelized sugar densely packed with the gentle heat of the spice. It was yet another beautiful dish.

Sunday lunch is served 12.30 to 16.00, three courses including bread and half a bottle of wine €19.95.

A ' menú del día' is served 12.30 to 15.00, three courses including bread and a glass of wine €17.95, three courses including bread €14.95.

An evening menu is served 18.00 to 22.30, three courses, including bread and half a bottle of wine €24.95, two courses including bread and a glass of wine €19.95.

The restaurant also caters for private functions, birthday parties and luncheon groups.

Le Soleil is just one of those restaurants that never disappoints. If anything, you always leave anticipating the next time you'll be dining there again!

The restaurant is on Plaza La Sort, close to the statue, and on the corner closest to the port. Open Tuesday to Saturday 12.30 to 15.00 and 18.00 to 22.30. Sunday 12.30 to 16.00 and 18.30 to 22.30.

Closed Mondays. Wheelchair friendly and air conditioned.

You can call 965 743 254 to make a reservation or email them on: info@lesoleil-restaurant.com. www.lesoleil-restaurant.com