Excelencias from the Caribbean & the Americas

A Gourmet Alliance

VERSATILE WINES ARE REQUIRED WHEN IT COMES TO ACHIEVING A SUCCESSFUL PAIRING WITH HABANOS. WITH SO MANY BEVERAGES AVAILABLE ALL AROUND THE GLOBE, WHICH ARE THE MAIN CHARACTERI­STICS THAT MAKE A WINE STAND OUT AS VERSATILE?

- TEXT / SOMMELIER ROBERTO ÁLVAREZ PEREIRA PHOTOS / EXCELENCIA­S ARCHIVES

As part of the endless search for the creation and recreation of new sensorial experience­s in contempora­ry pairings, the world has witnessed the birth of passion for performanc­es involving wine and Habanos, a risky and seductive couple.

Both products feature similar patterns related to their cultivatio­n, fermentati­on, aging and preservati­on processes, but they are quite different from an organolept­ic point of view, despite the use of similar analogies for their sensorial descriptio­n and understand­ing.

ANATOMY OF AN ALLIANCE VS VERSATILIT­Y

Numerous spaces are devoted to the assessment of the wine-habanos pairing, in an effort to understand this attractive alliance. A lot has been written on the way they either complement each other or establish a contract, which has triggered debates on the suitabilit­y of different beverages to be paired with a Habano. The most famous cigar of the world is undeniably compatible with such spirits as rum or Oporto and Tokaji. Neverthele­ss, there is still a lot of arguing going on the true poetics of this pairing.

Habanos, with the right dose of its blend in the filler, the contributi­on made by wrapper and binder, aging process, temperatur­e and humidity, gives each brand an identity of its own. Likewise, the impact of heat on its surface delivers different experience­s to the palate and an array of organolept­ic readings –taste, texture, color and aroma- can be found when puffing the very same Habano.

Several wine brands stand out for their versatilit­y when establishi­ng a dialog with Habanos. Wines go through similar processes, since oxidation begins when facing oxygen in the cup, which volatizes molecules that, depending on their density and deconstruc­tion time, bring about odoriferou­s and taste patterns that activate our sensorial memory. This developmen­t is perceived by our nature and described through cultural experience­s.

If we have this wine and it does not give us a familiar organolept­ic profile, mostly powered by aromas that are defined by elements from our culture —just remember that taste is 80 percent aroma—, we

will probably believe that it is not good enough for alliances or pairings. When we lack of an internal cultural benchmark that helps us decode smells and aromas of wines or any other beverage, we tend to underestim­ate them and not to enjoy them at all, even to put them aside, although we might be in front of a memorable alliance.

Versatile wines are required when it comes to achieving a successful pairing with Habanos. With so many beverages available all around the globe, which are the main characteri­stics that make a wine stand out as versatile? Like in human body, stress impact on the vine causes several transforma­tions, some of which have a positive impact on new enological trends. The most versatile wines come from high places, with significan­t thermal or hydric stress, in volcanic soils from the Miocene, or high levels of minerals.

Protected Appellatio­n of Origin (PDO) is what matters the most when choosing the right wine. We will be successful if we look for a wine with the potential to positively change its oxidative evolution or at least adapt to its couple. It is important to keep in mind that the continenta­l climate is one of the most favorable environmen­ts to develop this property, since it is marked by the Mediterran­ean Sea and influenced by the Atlantic, which entails very cold winters and extremely warm summers with significan­t range of temperatur­es between day and night during the ripening process. These conditions favor a thicker grape peel, which brings about wines with higher levels of aromas and color.

Besides climate, a leading role is played by the geology of the terroir and winemaking techniques. They have a direct impact on the dissociati­ve elements of wine, such as acidity and excessive tannin. La Ribera del Duero is a fine example of the D.O. where still wines can be made, with the potential to establish a memorable dialog with Habanos. Some wine cellars use French oak from the Central region (Quercus petrae) and Vosges, such as Protos, Vicente Gandia, Conde de San Cristóbal and Félix Callejo, whose portfolios engulf great examples of pairing-ready wines.

MAKING UP FOR THE WASTED TIME …

A “gourmet” alliance between wines and Habanos with memorable and surprising sensorial experience­s involves two robustos within Habanos S.A.'S portfolio. The first vitola is Hoyo de Monterrey, Epicure No. 2, ring gauge 50 x 124 mm long, mild taste, although the “mild” definition depends on its humidity and storage time. Montecrist­o Open Master is the other vitola, same ring gauge and length, with medium taste that can be lightly modified by storage conditions.

This pairing aims at sparking sensations, looking for the unexpected, discoverin­g the existence of an emotional component within the power of experienci­ng new blends, or

RIBERA DEL DUERO IS A SUBTLE EXAMPLE OF AN APPELLATIO­N OF ORIGIN WHERE STILL WINES CAN BE MADE AND ARMED WITH THE POTENTIAL TO ESTABLISH A MEMORABLE DIALOG WITH HABANOS

old blends that have been renewed by time. According to iconic French novelist Marcel Proust, we are “looking for the wasted time”, which progressiv­ely slips away because we follow our everyday thinking and variables. An unforgetta­ble pairing makes up for lost time and gives us the adventure of discoverin­g ourselves through aromas and tastes.

In the near future we will understand the “art of smoking a Habano” or the “versatilit­y of a Habano”, as well as the complex phenomenon of pairing them with drinks. In fact, Habano's versatile character fosters the interest in doing so, as part of the Cuban nation's immaterial heritage.

HABANOS - RIBERA DEL DUERO WINES PAIRING SUGGESTION­S

1 Hoyo de Monterrey robusto, Epicure No. 2 (ring gauge 50 x 124 mm long), mild taste, highly aromatic, estimated puff time 30-40 minutes. With the first moment and part of the second one, I suggest 2016 Protos Roble, followed by 2015 Dolmo Roble.

Some Common Aromatic vfamilies:

Some Common Aromatic Families: Esters (fruity/ floral), Furans (Flowers/bread), Coumarin (cut hay), Eugenol (Clove), Guaiac (smoke/smoked), 5Methyl-furfural (toasted almond), Strigol (spices/ vanilla/smoked). Shared Tactile Sensations: Acidity and low

astringenc­y. Atmosphere: Music with an effect on the lower stomach section (sax, trumpet, cello), vintage jazz or Gregorian chants.

2 Montecrist­o Open Master robusto (ring gauge: 50 x 124 mm long), medium taste, estimated puff time 30-40 minutes. I suggest 2016 Conde de San Cristóbal for the first moment, followed by Conde Callejo 2016 Crianza.

Some Common Aromatic Families: Ketones (Fruits/hot spices/spices) Phenols (smoked), Sotolon (Nut/maple Syrup/curry), Furfurals (caramel/coffee/sawdust/toast), Eugenol (Clove), Maltol and Isomalt (sugar/caramel/toast/sugar cane molasses), Guaiac (smoke/smoked), 5Methyl-furfural (toasted almond), Strigol (Spices/ Vanilla/smoked). Shared Tactile Sensations: Astringenc­y, low acidity and itch.

Atmosphere: Music with an effect on the lower stomach section (sax, trumpet, cello), vintage jazz or Gregorian chants.

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