Excelencias from the Caribbean & the Americas

One finger-licking Habano

“VIAJE A LA HABANA” (A TRIP TO HAVANA) HAS BEEN FOR YEARS ONE OF THE MOST NOTABLE DISHES OF SPANISH PASTRY CHEF JORDI ROCA. BUT HOW WOULD A PASTRY BASED ON TOBACCO BE SUCH A SUCCESSFUL DISH?

- TEXTO/ REDACCION EXCELENCIA­S PHOTOS / EXCELENCIA­S ARCHIVES

There are well-know delights, unexpected tastes, and then you find brilliance. That is why, if you come from one of the most shining families within the internatio­nal culinary world, it comes as no surprise that every dish portrays that mix between what you expect and the exotic, always making reference to traditions. When pastry chef Jordi Roca started his culinary studies and saw every item of the restaurant his brothers Joan and Josep had inaugurate­d years before, he never thought he would be universall­y recognized as the world's best pastry chef by three of the top culinary institutio­ns in 2003, 2010, and 2014, respective­ly. He never thought his pastry menu would excel globally as the perfect epilogue of a culinary symphony proposed by Celler de Can Roca in its two menu varieties: a restoratio­n proposal awarded with three Michelin stars.

The story of this man shows how persistent a passion can be if it is born from a true feeling. Inexperien­ced Jordi showed promise and in his early 20s, he devised the basis of one of his top desserts, which makes reference to Cuba itself: “Viaje a La Habana” has been among the most notable dishes of the youngest Roca. But how would a pastry based on tobacco be such a successful dish? Making reference to a marvelous cigar helped to make the difference. It had/has its genesis in the Habanos –that Premium product from Pinar del Río, Cuba. Creativity, overcoming boundaries, eagerness to innovate, and seeking inspiratio­n in every event and experience, helped to achieve the goal.

The story of this man shows how persistent any passion could be if it starts from truth

IDEAS RIDDLED WITH NEW AND SWEET CONCEPTS, COUPLED WITH HIS FLAIR AS A COOK PER SE AND VOCATION, MAKE JORDI GROW IN HEALTHY DESSERTS CAPABLE OF GAUGING THE STORY BEHIND EVERY MAKING

Biscuits, aged rum, almonds, mint, dark chocolate, lime, and a Habano Partagas Series D No.4 are the main elements in this recipe. At first glance, it is just a mojito plus a Habano on an ashtray, but once you taste it you sense the truth: a sensory palette full of surprises. Jordi is not the only chef who has explored everything a Cuban Habano can provide to a dish, but he is the most fervent seeker of the richness and elaboraten­ess this Caribbean jewel can provide to the pastry world. In fact, another of his genius move mixes milk chocolate, vanilla, dried plums, cocoa, whisky and this time, tobacco leaves. Such harmonizat­ion referred by sommeliers reaches its highest levels when the essence of tobacco, the malted and aged savor of a spirited Scotch met in one product.

That is the truth. Few remained indifferen­t to when a Habano is in play. “Viaje a La Habana” is the perfect example. Those who know him better find in this recipe a tribute to his taste for a unique puff. And to those who have decided not to smoking due to health conditions, personal reasons, or a less adventurou­s behavior, the Habano's Ice Cream covered with dark chocolate designed by the famous pastry chef is a nod to aromas, flavors, and even memories.

And yes, Jordi is a Rock. He is savvy and likes futurist games. But he is often reluctant to ignore traditions even though he loves challenges. That is why he is a paladin. His ideas, full of new and vivid concepts as well as his skill as chef, make him believe in healthy, light, and pleasant desserts, capable of weighing up the story behind every recipe. Emotions, experience­s, landscapes, perfumes...everything matters to encourage his culinary revolution. He bakes with sensitivit­y and wisdom the appetizing beauties, illusions, dreams...his philosophy speaks of change, permanence, innovation, amazement, and those edible versions of a same product, a legend, a city, a life and, why not, the most exquisite of the cigars: the Habano.

*(D.O.P.) Denominaci­ón de Origen Protegida.

 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? Jordi Roca
Jordi Roca
 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Spain