Scuba Diving in Cuba: Underwater Passion

FOR SPECIALISTS, DIVING IN THE WATERS OF THE GREATEST OF ANTILLES IS A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE. EXCELENCIAS TELLS YOU WHY

Rather than writing a guidebook on scuba diving, I am going to tell you some of the many first-hand experiences I have had undersea throughout the successive trips to the Greatest of Antilles. I do strongly recommend to dive in its seas —to which I feel a rare passion— and I cannot find a better way to prove it than sharing my experiences.

I was part of an expedition that back in May 2008, dived several times in the wrecks of the armed Spanish cruiser Cristobal Colon, sunk in the eastern side of the country. People in our group were extraordinary: Vicente Gonzalez, underwater photographer; Omelio Borroto, head of La Naturaleza Secreta de Cuba (Cuba's Secret Nature); Alfonso Cruz, underwater painter; Noel Lopez, underwater cameraman; and Javier Nart, lawyer, war correspondent, and Eurodeputy at present times.

After a rough day with double dip on the Spanish cruiser, and amid a long afterdinner conversation, Javier told us he had been lucky to go deep-sea diving in all the

world's seas. But if he had to choose his favorite, he would certainly pick Jardines de la Reina's, in Cuba.

Back then, I had not been in Jardines, yet. I was lucky to visit such world's scuba diving paradise in 2011. Noel Lopez works as divemaster there with professionalism and exceptional care. Jardines is worldwide known and admired by scuba divers around the globe. Then, I perfectly realized Javier Nart's words.

Too much excitement to tell, but I treasure the ones coming up every time I jump to the water from the boat and a crowd of Caribbean reef sharks, silky sharks, groupers, jewfishes, barracudas, and huge shoals of colored fishes follow me like “lapdogs”.

The seabed is spectacular. I saw, among so many wonders, a SEAT Ibiza-sized wreckfish with its huge open mouth breathing that I stared quietly, while my heart was beating quite fast as I was in shock.

When you are in the bottom of the sea sheltered by impressive rock walls covered by corals of varied species, sponges in different shapes and huge gorgonians of varied colors, you can see in the distance thresher sharks, hammerhead sharks, tiger sharks, sea turtles, manta rays, and big pelagic. You just lost track of time there. When you check your diving computer, you realize you are in a worrying depth and suddenly, you come back to reality with an adrenaline rush.

In addition, as you arrive at the mangrove, you find some of the Cuban, American crocodiles that walk up the natural channel, in a real labyrinth of salt water and lush vegetation.

We should take into account that Jardines de la Reina is a series of keys, 50 nautical miles away from the coast in front of Jucaro, in the Caribbean Sea, in the southern coast of the central region of Cuba. It is a 157-mile restricted fishing area, perhaps the last pristine virgin land on the planet. It is a genuine natural miracle. Enjoying the solitude, that lost paradise, is a very healthy practice for the mind and the spirit.

I could further delve into Jardines' wonders, but I do not want to miss some of the other scuba diving places in Cuba, which are authentic gems as well.

Maria la Gorda definitely stands out. Mind-blowing underwater walls, exceeding the 700 meters in depth in freefall. Equally beautiful are the marine environment of the Isle of Youth, where —in my opinion— you can appreciate the clearest waters in the world. To that exquisite list, we ought to add Playa Giron, with emblematic depths and wreckages; Cayo Levisa, and Santiago de Cuba, which results in a diving through history with all the wreckages of warships that belonged to the Admiral Cervera's Operation Squad of the West Indies.

Cayo Largo del Sur is also essential as it boasts an impressive biodiversity; and Santa Lucia, offering the exploration of the Mortera's wreckage, and bull sharks in the channel of Nuevitas. All scuba diving specialties can be practiced —namely, caves, sinkholes, wrecks, open sea…; with diving either for apprentice or skilled scuba divers. Winter is the preferred season due to the lack of rain, which guarantees the water clarity. Nonetheless, you can practice scuba diving in Cuba all year long.

Finally, a few words for travelers who just stop in Havana. There are some emblematic diving centers in Cuba's capital city; for instance, Marina Hemingway or Marina Tarara. There are also impressive diving spots in the Havana Bay itself such as the Cementerio de las Anclas, on the outside of El Morro —where ships dropped anchor before entering Havana's harbor— and the historical wreckage of Spanish cruisers Sanchez Barcaiztegui, destroyed by collision at the dawn of the last War in Cuba, which remains sunk inside the Havana's Port.

Playa Giron's marine envionments are equally beautiful