Le Bégonia d’Or

The year is 1688. The quartermaster of the navy of Rochefort, Michel Bégon, departs from the French coast towards the Caribbean wearing a military uniform full of stripes and braids. Upon landing, the expedition he was sponsoring came across an unknown plant with fleshy stems and large leaves, whose small pink calyx flowers were given the name of Bégonia. Although over time the vocation for the craftsmanship that decorated Bégon’s costume has faded, there is still a prodigious mastery among the select group of experts who still practice the meticulous technique of gold embroidery in the atelier of Le Bégonia d’Or (The Golden Begonia).Since 1995, this non-profit organization has been keeping the Rochefort tradition alive. It is there that it opened the first of the three small workshops in which they are organized, coordinated as a small company. At the helm is its founder, MarieHélène César, followed by Sylvie Deschamps, Maître d’Art, who, in addition to serving as manager and vice-president, has been in charge of selecting the most talented team of embroiderers in France, made up of her former mentor, Marlène Rouhaud, and Thierry Tarrade, designer, embroiderer and training manager. In total and in alternating shifts, there are usually six hands in charge of the restoration and reproduction of ancient embroideries, both liturgical and secular, as well as the sublimation of all kinds of designs and the production of commissioned pieces. Although these usually occupy them from days to months, they still have time to supply Carlhian threads and beads and to give courses— for beginners, liturgical gold, Lunéville crochet, etc.—at all levels and whose annual fee is allocated to the organization.

Besides Sylvie, Marlène, and Thierry, is there anyone else in the embroidery team?

The president and founder is Marie-Hélène César, who founded it almost 27 years ago. At that time she was the Headmistress of the only school that specialized in Golden broderie in France.

At the Lycée Professionnel Gilles Jamain de Rochefort?

Yes, the Lycée Professionnel is the only state school in France that is officially from the state. When Marie-Hélène was the headmistress of the school there was a diploma that pupils could only obtain after having practiced in the studio for a month, but there was no studio until the one in Rochefort came into the picture.

Why Rochefort for the first studio?

It is historically the town where Golden embroidery started because it is a city that was built in the 17th century.

What is the workshop like?

There are three. Sometimes, when there is a tremendous amount of work, they have to hire one of the embroiders to work parttime, but normally there are only four: Marie, Sylvie, Marlene, and Thierry. Basically, a tiny tiny place but with a lot of work and, especially, a lot of training.

What does it take to join your atelier?

We cannot currently hire any more people. They just want to make a small place and a work course.

How long can the training to become an expert take?

You have different titles or ways of being recognized such as an excellent expert. But the supreme title, which is given by the Minister of Culture, is a very exceptional title; it does not exist in any other countries and is called the Master of Art title. You get it through what you have done but not only: there also has to be a knowledge of the tradition, but you can be innovative. When you get this title you are a master of art and you have to stay for two or three years, it is a cycle that has to reach excellence in craft.

Do you use any machines?

There is only hand embroidery, but they have recently acquired a machine that has not been used yet. Despite that, this machine is classified as handmade. They got it before the pandemic because they thought they would have the time to train students, but then they were overloaded with work.

I imagine it varies a lot, but what is the average time it takes to create a piece?

It can go from days to weeks to months. At the moment, the three of them are together embroidering a twosided flag for an association. The inspiration comes from two flags that belonged to Napoleon I. It is full of embroideries and names of battles. So far they have been working on that for two and a half months.

Is there one that has required excessive detail and patience?

Sometimes the piece is very delicate and for example, two years ago they had to do a part of ten pens for Montblanc. It was so fine and delicate, with that pure gold, that it was a real threat because it could break. So to put the gold into the cristal cylinder of each piece took about one month.

Where do you source your supplies from?

From Carlhian, the only place in France which makes Cannetille gold and metallic threads. The director, meaning me, also has a Master of Arts. It is the only place left in France that makes it. It of course is very expensive, but it is excellent both in quality and in time of supply.