Living (Sri Lanka)

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For better tasting food and your own peace of mind use sustainabl­y and locally produced ingredient­s Eggs should always be free-range (1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml)

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Griddled lamb cutlets with whipped rose harissa feta and sweet and sour cucumber (Serves 4-6)

For the sweet and sour cucumber

¾ large cucumber

175ml honeygar (or cider vinegar mixed with 4tbsp clear honey)

1tbsp chopped fresh dill

1tsp ground sumac

For the whipped feta

200g feta cheese

200g Greek yoghurt juice of half a lemon

2tbsp extra virgin olive oil

½-1tsp rose harissa (or to taste)

10-12 Greek style dried black olives (stoned and chopped)

2tbsp pomegranat­e seeds (for sprinkling)

1tbsp sesame seeds

For the lamb cutlets

8 small, lean lamb cutlets (cut from a French trimmed rack) juice of half a lemon

2tbsp extra virgin olive oil thin flatbreads (to serve) fresh dill fronds (to garnish)

Lay the lamb cutlets on a baking tray and sprinkle them with sea salt, plenty of black pepper, lemon juice and olive oil, and rub into the cutlets. Leave to marinate for at least an hour. For the sweet and sour cucumber, mix the vinegar, 175ml cold water, and salt and pepper to taste in a bowl. If using honeygar, you may like to add more honey to taste – it should be pleasantly sweet and sour. Slice the cucumber into very long thin ribbons on a mandolin or with a potato peeler. Put them in a clean tea towel and squeeze out the excess liquid, then drop them into the vinegar mixture and stir in the chopped dill. Keep the cucumber submerged in the pickle in the fridge for 30 minutes for a crunchy pickle, or longer for a softer pickle. The pickles will keep, chilled, for up to a week.

Crumble the feta into a bowl, and using an electric hand whisk, whisk in the yoghurt until smooth and creamy. Beat in harissa to taste, then lemon juice to taste. Season with salt and pepper if necessary. Spread the dip in a shallow serving bowl and drizzle the olive oil over it (this can be made a day in advance). Mix the olives, pomegranat­e and sesame seeds together and scatter over the surface. Cover and chill.

Preheat a griddle pan to high, then cook the cutlets for two minutes on each side, or until cooked but still pink in the middle (medium). Serve immediatel­y on a board or tray with the whipped feta, pickled cucumber ribbons and flatbreads.

Garnish with dill fronds.

Beef bulgogi with black rice and pink pickle (Serves 6)

For the pink pickle

2 medium red onions (around 250g in total, thinly sliced)

1tbsp light vegetable oil

1tsp black mustard seeds

1 small star anise

250ml white balsamic vinegar

1tbsp beetroot vinegar/ juice (optional)

1tsp freshly ground sea salt

1 fresh bay leaf

For the beef bulgogi

750g piece of beef skirt (sirloin or rib-eye)

3 large garlic cloves (crushed)

2tbsp clear honey

1½tbsp sesame oil

100ml soy sauce

½tsp freshly ground red Kampot pepper (or black pepper)

For the rice

100g Asian black rice

1tsp hazelnut or sesame oil chilli sauce (to serve)

12 crisp lettuce leaves (washed and dried, to serve)

First make the pickle. Put the onions into a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave to soften for 8-10 minutes. While they are soaking, heat the oil in a small saucepan; when hot, add the mustard seeds and cook with a lid on until they pop. Remove from the heat and stir in the star anise, salt and vinegar. Return to the heat and bring to the boil. Drain the onions and pile into a clean jar. Pour over the hot vinegar, making sure the onions are submerged. Tuck in the bay leaf, seal and leave overnight to pickle (or if time is short, for at least two hours). Cool and chill. Chilled, this will keep for a week.

To make the bulgogi, trim, then wrap and put the meat in the freezer for 20 minutes or so to make it easier to cut into thin slices, around 5mm thick. Mix the marinade ingredient­s together and stir in the meat to coat. Cover, chill and marinate for 30 minutes.

Put the rice and a pinch of salt into a small saucepan, add 250ml water and bring to a boil over a high heat. Lower the heat to a bare simmer and cook, covered, for 30-35 minutes until tender. Remove from the heat and allow to stand, covered, for five minutes. Drain any excess water and stir in the hazelnut or sesame oil.

When ready to serve, drain the meat, then barbecue, grill or pan-fry the meat in batches on a high heat. As the slices are thin they will cook very quickly. Don’t overcrowd them – you want them to be deep brown and shiny yet tender in the middle. Pile the meat, rice and pink onions with a dash

of chilli onto the lettuce leaves, fold up and serve immediatel­y.

Blackened aubergine and leek cream with falafel and green herb tahini (Serves 4-6)

For the falafel

250g dried chickpeas (soaked in cold water for 24 hours)

2 garlic cloves (crushed)

1tsp ground cumin

½tsp ground coriander a pinch of mild chilli seasoning

¼tsp bicarbonat­e of soda

2 spring onions (finely chopped)

3tbsp each chopped flatleaf parsley and coriander sunflower oil (for deep-frying)

For the aubergine and leek cream

4 aubergines

3 medium leeks (tough green leaves trimmed off)

150ml extra virgin olive oil

3tbsp tahini paste

2tbsp Greek yoghurt

2tbsp fresh lemon juice (or more, to taste)

2 large garlic cloves (finely sliced)

2 fresh red chillies (seeded and finely chopped) a handful of pine nuts (to garnish) basil leaves (shredded, to garnish)

For the green herb tahini

100g tahini paste juice of one lemon (plus extra to taste) a pinch of caster sugar

1 garlic clove (finely grated)

25g each coriander, rocket and flat-leaf parsley (stalks removed)

2tbsp Greek yoghurt warm flatbread (to serve)

First make the falafel. Drain the soaked chickpeas well. Blend them in a food processor with the garlic, cumin, coriander, chilli powder and bicarbonat­e of soda until they form a smooth paste. Taste and season well. Tip into a bowl, cover and allow to rest for 30 minutes. Beat the spring onions, parsley and coriander into the chickpea paste, then knead the mixture well to bring it together into a ball. Line a tray with cling film. Scoop out small lumps and make into flat, round cakes – as small or as large as you like – and lay them on the tray.

Cover and chill for 15 minutes.

Heat the oil to 180°C/350°F. Deep-fry the falafel in batches in hot oil for 2-3 minutes until they are crisp and brown, turning them over once. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. They can be kept warm in a low oven or made in advance and reheated in a medium to hot oven.

The easiest way to make the puree without a wood ember barbecue is to preheat the grill to high. Prick the aubergines 5-6 times all over with a small, sharp knife.

Arrange them on a plate in the microwave. Microwave on high for around 10-15 minutes or until soft and collapsing (this will depend on the size and power of your microwave).

While the aubergines are cooking, halve the leeks lengthwise, wash out any grit, then arrange on a grill pan and brush liberally with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, then grill for around 10 minutes, turning once until very soft and beginning to char. Remove from the grill pan and transfer to a bowl. Remove the soft aubergines from the microwave and cut each one in two lengthways. Arrange cut side up in the grill pan and brush with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, then grill for 8-10 minutes, checking regularly until deep brown and beginning to char. Remove from the grill, scoop out the soft flesh and add to the bowl of leeks. Add the tahini paste, yoghurt and lemon juice and use a handheld blender to blend until very smooth. Taste and season. Cool to room temperatur­e.

To make the tahini, put the tahini paste, 100ml water, lemon juice, sugar and garlic into a blender and blend until smooth. Add the chopped herbs and salt to taste, and blend again until smooth. Beat in the yoghurt. This will keep, chilled, for three days.

Spread the aubergine and leek puree thickly in swirling waves over a shallow serving platter. Heat the remaining olive oil, making it up to 100ml with more if necessary, and fry the sliced garlic and chilli until just beginning to turn golden. Immediatel­y pour this over the top of the puree. Sprinkle with pine nuts and shredded basil. Pour the green herb tahini into a bowl and pile the falafel onto a plate or dish. Serve with some warm flatbread.

Crispy black cabbage kimchi and pancetta pancakes with bagna càuda dipping sauce (Serves 4-6)

For the kimchi

200g cavolo nero

50g sea salt

4 spring onions (trimmed and chopped)

For the kimchi paste

1tbsp gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)

1tbsp crushed garlic

½tbsp grated ginger

100g shredded or roughly grated fresh mooli (daikon)

1tsp fish sauce

25ml sesame oil

1tbsp distilled white vinegar

1tbsp caster sugar

For the pancake batter

225g plain flour

3tbsp potato flour/starch (or cornflour)

100g unfermente­d black cabbage kimchi (as above, finely chopped)

1tsp gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)

1½tsp caster sugar

2-3tsp fish sauce (to taste)

3 spring onions (trimmed and finely chopped)

3 garlic cloves (crushed)

50g crispy pancetta or bacon rashers (crumbled) vegetable oil (for frying)

For the bagna càuda

125ml extra virgin olive oil

4-5 garlic cloves (grated)

12 anchovies in oil (drained and chopped)

100g unsalted butter (cubed)

Start with the kimchi. Roughly shred the cavolo nero, stalks and all. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and toss with the salt. Weigh down with a saucer and a heavy weight and leave for

3-4 hours. Then, bring a large pan of water to the boil, plunge in the cavolo nero, stir and leave for a minute, drain well, then plunge into cold water to stop the cooking. Drain well.

Mix all the kimchi paste ingredient­s together in a large bowl, add the cavolo nero and spring onion. Cover and leave for an hour before using to allow the flavours to develop. Mix the flours together and gradually whisk in 350ml cold water until the mix resembles pourable double cream. Stir in the chopped kimchi, the gochugaru, sugar, fish sauce, spring onion, garlic and crumbled pancetta.

Heat enough oil in a frying pan to just cover the base until a teaspoon of mixture dropped into the pan bubbles and ‘dances’ immediatel­y it hits the base, then remove the tester. You can either make individual pancakes by dropping a large tablespoon of batter into the pan and frying until each side is brown and crispy – 2-3 minutes on each side – or make larger, pan sized ones, cooking and flipping as before but for longer, then cut into wedges or fingers. It should make three large pancakes. When cooked, drain on kitchen paper and keep warm in a low oven.

To make the bagna càuda, pour the olive oil in a pan, add the garlic and anchovies and stir over a low heat for a few minutes until the anchovies start to dissolve. Whisk in the cubed butter. As soon as it has melted, remove from the heat and whisk until creamy. Pour into a warm flameproof bowl, set over a candle plate warmer and serve with the pancakes for dipping.

Burrata and anchovy with salsa verde on golden toasts (Serves 4-6)

1 slim French baguette extra virgin olive oil

For the salsa verde

2 garlic cloves (finely chopped)

4 anchovy fillets in oil (rinsed and finely chopped)

3tbsp each chopped fresh parsley, mint and basil

2tbsp salted capers (rinsed and chopped)

150ml best quality extra virgin olive oil

2tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice (or to taste)

For the burrata

300g best-quality burrata

6 anchovy fillets in oil (drained and roughly chopped) pul biber (to scatter)

Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Slice the bread into long, thin ovals, brush with olive oil, season and arrange on a baking sheet. Bake for 10 minutes until golden and crisp. Remove and drain on kitchen paper. Store in an airtight container until ready to use. Reheat in a warm oven to crisp up.

Pound a teaspoon of salt with the garlic in a pestle and mortar until creamy. Stir in the remaining ingredient­s and season. This should be a very ‘loose’ sauce. Transfer to a jar and pour a layer of olive oil on top to exclude the air. This will keep for a week, chilled, although it’s at its best colour wise made on the day.

Chop the burrata into mouthful size pieces and pile into a bowl, scatter with the anchovies, then sprinkle with pul biber. Serve with the toasts and salsa verde.

Prawn ceviche spring rolls with tiger’s milk shots (Serves 6)

For the tiger’s milk

1 fresh Aji Amarillo chilli (halved and seeded or 2tsp Aji Amarillo chilli paste) juice of one fat lemon juice of six fat limes

1tsp finely grated fresh ginger

1 small garlic clove

4 fresh coriander sprigs

½tsp sugar

For the prawn ceviche

75g dried rice vermicelli sesame oil (to dress)

12 medium-size raw tiger prawns (in the shell)

1 large avocado (diced)

100g carrots (peeled and spiralised or julienned)

75g fresh bean sprouts

6 spring onions (trimmed and finely shredded)

25g fresh mint leaves

6 rice paper wraps (approx. 20cm in diameter) extra tiger’s milk spiked with pisco or tequila (for the shots)

To make the tiger’s milk, blanche the chilli three times in boiling water, each time changing the water to remove excess heat.

Put half the blanched chilli, lemon juice, lime juice, ginger, garlic, coriander, sugar and half a teaspoon of salt in a blender and blend until smooth. Taste and if not hot enough, add the remaining chilli and blend once more. Season to taste. Pass through a fine sieve into a glass jar and chill until ready to serve.

For the ceviche filling, boil a medium pan of water, remove from the heat, and drop in the noodles. Soak for around five minutes until soft and tender. Drain and pat dry.

Dress with a little sesame oil and put into a bowl.

Twist the heads off the prawns. Carefully peel off the shells and legs, leaving tails intact for decoration. Lay each prawn flat on its side and make a shallow incision down its back. Using the tip of your knife, flick out any traces of the dark vein, rinse carefully and pat dry. Blanche for a minute in boiling salted water, drain and refresh. Put each ingredient into a bowl, pour the tiger’s milk into a jug and set on a board. Have ready a shallow bowl of warm water for soaking the rice paper wraps and six cloth napkins dampened and rolled up.

Pour enough tiger’s milk over the prawns and avocado to coat generously. Mix and allow to cure for two minutes. Unroll the napkins flat in front of you. These will prevent the wraps from drying out. Take one rice paper wrapper at a time and slide it into the warm water. Leave for a few seconds – any longer and it will become too soft to handle. Remove the moistened but still slightly firm rice paper wrap and lay flat on a damp napkin. Leave for a minute or two – in this time the wrap will become more pliable. It’s ready to fill and roll when it’s both pliable and a little sticky. Start adding your filling, choosing from each bowl starting with the carrot and vermicelli. Don’t overfill. Roll up like a Swiss roll or fold the edges in to enclose the filling.

Eat immediatel­y, with a shot of spiked tiger’s milk on the side.

Dukkah crackers with Époisses, runny gorgonzola, fresh goat’s curd and pickled pear mostarda

(Serves 6)

For the pickled pear mostarda

900g firm pears (or quinces – peeled, cored and chopped)

185ml bottle medium-dry white wine

150ml cider vinegar

2tsp tamarind paste

900g (approx.) jam sugar with pectin

30g dried English mustard powder

For the dukkah

100g sesame seeds

55g coriander seeds

25g cumin seeds

50g hazelnuts

8 black peppercorn­s

½tsp sea salt

For the crackers

200g plain white flour

2tbsp dukkah

½tsp mild chilli seasoning

125g unsalted butter (chilled)

125g pecorino or other Italian hard cheese (grated)

4tbsp whole milk Époisses, runny gorgonzola and fresh goat’s curd (all at room temperatur­e, to serve)

First make the pear mostarda. Put the fruit into a large pan and pour in the wine and vinegar mixed with the tamarind paste. Cook gently for around 40 minutes until very soft. Puree the mixture, weigh and then add the same weight in sugar. Return to the pan. Dissolve the mustard powder with a teaspoon of salt in a little hot water and add to the puree and sugar. Mix well, then simmer very gently for 20-30 minutes until the liquid is thick and reduced. Pour or spoon into lightly oiled and lined baking tins to a depth of around 2cm, level, then chill until set firm. When set, turn out and cut into cubes.

Now make the dukkah. Toast the seeds and nuts in a hot, heavy frying pan over a medium to high heat until the aroma is released and they begin to toast – be careful not to burn them. Tip out onto a cold metal baking tray and leave to cool. Once cold, grind to a rough-textured powder by pulsing in a food processor or coffee grinder. Don’t overwork or the dukkah will turn into a paste. Transfer to a jar until needed.

Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Line two large baking sheets with baking parchment to ensure even baking. Sift the flour and chilli seasoning, then stir in the dukkah and cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Put this into a food processor with the cubed butter and a tablespoon of milk and pulse until it forms a ball. Tip out onto a floured work surface and knead lightly but thoroughly into a soft dough. Overworkin­g will make the pastry greasy and tough. If the dough is very soft, wrap and chill for 15 minutes.

Roll out the dough on a floured surface to around 2½mm thick. Using a sharp knife, cut into around 20 squares or rectangles. Transfer to the lined baking sheets. Brush with the remaining milk and dredge with more dukkah. Bake for around 10-15 minutes until crisp and pale golden. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Store in an airtight container. Serve the cheeses on a board with piles of crackers and the cubed mostarda in a shallow bowl.

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