AYACUCHO

The ebullient Peruvian city is rich with ornate architecture and has plenty for the hungry traveller, from piquant stews to spicy frothy drinks savours the highlights

Located in one of Peru’s most archaeologically important valleys, Ayacucho has been a settlement since as far back as 700 AD when the pre-Inca Huari culture ruled the country. Despite the Spanish architecture of ice-cream coloured houses, its buzzy atmosphere is firmly rooted in its indigenous heritage. Expect to hear the rhythmic song of the native language Quechua float around street corners and spot locals in brightly embellished traditional dress jumping on buses. With a pleasant climate year-round – and little chance of rain, thanks to its position 2,761m above sea level – there are no weather dependent timings for a trip; but arrive in February to catch the annual carnival (22-26), which explodes onto the streets in a riot of swirling woven shawls, brightly-coloured powder paints and flying water balloons.

Nicknamed the ‘City of Churches,’ the centre of Ayacucho is easily walkable. The vibrant streets sit in a grid pattern, like orderly paint charts, interspersed with 33 ornate religious properties representing each year of Jesus’ life. The 17th century Catedral de Ayacucho is considered one of Peru’s most beautiful, a mismatched renaissance-baroque masterpiece built by Philip III of Spain. Inside you’ll discover 10 elaborate altarpieces draped in gold leaf. This is a city of syncretism: for every altar filled with religious iconography, there’s a streetful of handicraft workshops celebrating the ancient Huari civilisation that founded the city. Trawl artisan souvenirs at Mercado Centro Artesanal Shosaku Nagase – Avenida Maravillas 103, or explore the studios of the Santa Ana neighbourhood where generations of families craft intricately woven fabrics and filigree jewellery. The region’s famous retablos – ornate portable boxes depicting historical and religious events – are a ‘must-buy’ for those with space in their suitcases. Nearby the ramshackle village of Quinua is home to a thriving ceramics industry. Wander the cobbled streets and spot decorative figurines adorning rustic homes before visiting the renowned potter Mamerto Sánchez on Jirón Sucre.

While Ayacucho hotels haven’t quite caught up with

Lima’s luxurious accommodation options, they more than make up for it with charm and warmth. Housed in two colonial era mansions in the historic centre, ViaVia Peru Ayacucho (Tel: 0051 66 110710 or visit viavia.world) is an intimate guesthouse with simply furnished rooms and a cactus filled courtyard. Tucked behind one of the city’s many churches, you’ll find the colonial style Altipacha Ayacucho Hotel (Tel: 0051 66 280891 or visit altipachahotel.com) where you can snuggle under beautiful blankets in comfortable well-appointed rooms.

Platefuls of Puca Picante (a hearty dish of pork cooked with yellow chillies, potatoes and toasted peanuts), warming Bean Teqtes (stew) and popular Qapchi (a snack of crumbled fresh cheese over potatoes) are in plentiful supply at Mercado 12 de Abril, Ayacucho’s central food market. Seek out the fruit laden smoothie stall for a half litre breakfast of your favourite fruit blended. For a more formal arrangement, La Casona (Tel: 0051 66 312733) on Jirón Bellido is a bustling courtyard restaurant that serves big portions of regional specialities. If you’re tempted to try the Ayacucho version of cuy (guinea pig), duck under the stone archway of Recreo Las Flores (Tel: 0051 66 526104) in the east of the city and join Ayacucho families tucking into Andean favourites. For those wondering what the frothy drink favoured by locals is, it’s ponche, a spiced peanut and sesame seed medley. Try it with wawa bread, a sweet dough that’s baked for festivities. To taste some local beers, spend an evening at low-key YAKU (Tel: 0051 66 669300) on Plaza de Armas – there’s even live music.

Be sure to seek out the ice-cream stalls on the Plaza de Armas for a taste of Ayacucho’s extra-creamy, hand churned sesame soft scoop, served by friendly locals.

The nearby chocolate-coloured Huari ruins are often overlooked in favour of Peru’s more famous Machu Picchu, earning them the moniker the ‘Forgotten Ruins.’ But the sprawling site and tiny museum are worth the 40 minute taxi journey.