JEJU – SOUTH KOREA
TIM BROAD – ACCOUNT DIRECTOR
The ‘mermaids,’ the white sandy beaches, the volcano, the famous waterfalls, the secret to longevity, the manicured parks and vast green spaces – there are so many reasons why I’d love to visit Jeju – the ‘Hawaii of South Korea.’ Even just getting myself to South Korea is long overdue, given that I’m married to a Korean. But whenever I’ve heard stories of the country, the one place that has forever fascinated me is the island of Jeju, some 170 km south of the mainland. And when people talk of Jeju, they inevitably talk of the legendary haenyeo.
These female divers – often referred to as the ‘last mermaids’ – explore the island’s seabed for conch, octopus, seaweed and urchins, hitting depths of 20m without oxygen tanks. That is a feat enough but then they have to haul up hefty bags of edible ocean treasures, and they aren’t all young women. Many are in their 60s, 70s and there are even some in their 80s. I believe the oldest is close to 90. I’ve always wanted to meet them and hear their stories and about how they manage to do what they do.
It’s also the way of life on this island that attracts me and how the people seem to have discovered the secret to longer life – they live on average 1.1 years longer than other South Koreans.
I’ve no doubt that part of that is the quality of the food. As an isolated island, Jeju has developed its own flavours and its ways of cooking differ from the rest of South Korea. Needless to say, I’ve already got a list of dishes I want to try. First is heuk-dwaeji – succulent grilled pork belly made from the native black pigs – and for this, I’m going to head to Heukdwaeji Geori, Black Pork Street. They love their pork so much in Jeju, they’ve got a whole area dedicated to it with seemingly endless barbecue restaurants serving up their take on the local favourite.
Abalone is another, specifically as it’s served up in jeonbokjuk, which sees the prized shellfish take pride of place in a porridge made with rice. Hanchi mulhoe is third on my ‘must-eat’ list – a cold, refreshing soup, packed with slivers of raw cuttlefish, vegetables, soybean, and red pepper paste and vinegar. It simply sounds too fascinating not to try at least once.
In fact, everything sounds fascinating about Jeju, from the early-blooming cherry blossoms to the three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the teddy bear and tea museums, and even its world-famous sex themed sculpture park – for the Instagram moments alone, that has to be on my itinerary.
You’re never alone when walking Japan’s Kumano Kodō Pilgrimage Path. Even if fellow white-clad pilgrims vanish into the Kii Peninsula’s dense pine forests, your journey is crowded with ghosts. These trails have hosted fearsome samurai, richly robed shoguns and imperial emperors – and that history swirls through the mist-cloaked mountains. Winding across the intersection of the Wakayama, Nara and Mie Prefectures, the routes have provided passage to Japan’s greatest shrines – Hongū Taisha, Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha – and oji (enshrined natural landmarks) for millennia. In contrast to the pixelated whirring streets of Japan’s cities, this cloudcapped corner south of Kyoto offers sensory respite beneath a multitude of crimson torii gates.
The mysticism of these ancient paths has always enticed me. The Kumano Kodō trails meander beneath primeval forests and through hushed bamboo groves, cutting into villages flanked by rice paddies and looping steaming hot spring towns. They’re as much nature paths as pilgrim routes and you’ll meet travellers seeking secular enlightenment alongside those following Japan’s unique Shinto-Buddhist
customs. All are welcome to partake in the ritual of prayer at the shrines, dropping a coin into donation boxes, bowing and clapping twice (to wake the gods), before bowing once more. Collecting ruby-red shrine stamps has even become a national pastime while the chance to have your fortune told entices even the most reluctant of pilgrims.
Of seven routes (of varying difficulties), the five day Nakahechi Imperial Path is the most encompassing, taking in a visit to the grand 33m high torii gate at Hongū Taisha shrine, the overgrown ruins of an abandoned settlement, a soak in hot springs and Japan’s largest waterfall, Nachi Falls. Pick up a bamboo hiking stick from the start point town of Tanabe and pad eastwards. Accommodation is limited but not lacking in quality. The local tourist board provides a list of the best on its website (tb-kumano.jp).
Once I’ve collected my shrine stamps, unravelled my fortune and found peace under the pines, the return to civilisation calls for a little luxury. I’ll be spending a night at Kyoto’s Sowaka Hotel (sowaka. com) for its blend of tradition and modern extravagance.
Beguiling streets, waves of sultry heat, a vibrant art scene, and the perfume of fired up parrillas, all punctuated by the ellipsis of a tango beat: what’s not tempting about Argentina’s lively capital? Its moniker ‘Paris of South America’ says everything about its slant. Constantly reimagining itself, it’s a city of many faces; each of its 48 barrios offering a snapshot of local life in its own right. Their origins sit firmly in the colonial era when, in the face of urban sprawl, each housed a pulpería – bars known for hosting aperitivo hour, something porteños (and my household) honour like law – providing a sense of community.
Whatever your fancy, there is a pocket of BA for everyone. Take jacaranda lined Palermo, for example, with its throng of ‘on-thepulse’ bars, craft breweries, modern art museum, polo clubs and boutique design digs. Or Recoleta, resplendent in old money grandeur, home to the dramatic Cementerio de la Recoleta, luxurious hotels and cafe lined squares. Smart Puerto Madero’s plentiful green spaces include the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve while historic La Barca boasts a colourful hodgepodge of painted buildings. Pulsing San Telmo – old school at heart with its Sunday antique markets – champions the city’s night hawks with jazz clubs and tango shows; I’ll report back on whether I hit the dance floor myself… As for the food, Caballito’s Mercado del Progreso is high on my list with vendors serving everything from tender slow-cooked Argentine steaks, grills and picadas, to empanadas, tamales and Italian inspired deli classics – a legacy of 19th-century immigrants.
If, like me, you’ve discovered a penchant for Argentinian reds during lockdown, a twin centre trip to take in the sweeping landscape and cutting-edge wine resorts around Mendoza is just the ticket. For those of us who rarely get above third gear in the city, a road trip adds an appealing dimension. The 11 hour route takes in swathes of open road as the foothills of the Andes unfurl. Maipú and Luján both boast wineries showcasing inky, fruity Malbecs and tropical noted Torrontés. But the Uco Valley’s Vine Resort (vineresortsandspa. com) – its restaurant led by ‘cooking-over-flame’ guru Francis Mallmann – pips it for me. Because that’s what travel’s about: great food, quality wine, unique experiences, glorious scenery and good times.