GOURMET TRAVELLER
A different take on the famed ‘Garden Route’ offering winelands, surf and safaris, coupled with the best fish of the Atlantic and veggie-forward fine dining
Out on the open road
Two weeks is well spent in South Africa’s Western Cape, ambling through the Winelands and the Garden Route. As green and easy on the eye as the name suggests, following the route – or detours off it – will lead to superb coast and forest scenery, terrific lunch stops and of course, all the wine tasting you could wish for. The Garden Route officially runs from Mossel Bay to Storms River but many travel a version from Cape Town as far as Port Elizabeth.
It’s not hard to get settled into the history, legendary Table Mountain views and incredible dining of Cape Town – especially if you stay in a chilled beachside base. Local seafood and game are both world class. You can join the queues at the cool spots in the Atlantic suburbs like Camps Bay and Clifton where Codfather (codfather.co. za) sells great seafood. For dinner, try La Mouette (lamouette-restaurant.co.za) at Sea Point where chef Neill Anthony serves up modern European influenced tasting menus paired with selections from a characterful local wine list: think Beef Fillet in Sage Brown Butter and Squid Ink with a glass of Stellenbosch Vineyard 2012 Morgenster Lourens River Valley Bordeaux Blend.
After a dip at Boulders Beach where you may have penguins for company, try the southern suburbs of Kalk Bay, where Olympia Café (olympiacafe.co.za) is renowned for brunch or lunch.
The Cape Winelands are not part of the traditional Garden Route but are an unmissable part of touring the region. Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and lower profile alternatives like Robertson are a short drive from Cape Town but a world away from big-city bustle. Compared to Europe and North America, staying here, eating well and touring vineyards represents great value. You can take a break to enjoy minivan or horseback tours of wineries, many of which include a sumptuous lunch spread. La Petite Ferme’s (lapetiteferme.co.za) jaw-dropping views of the Franschhoek Valley are the backdrop to dishes like Slow-roasted Knuckle of Springbok, paired with La Petite Ferme’s own 2018 Merlot.
The fast route to Mossel Bay is the N2 motorway but with more time on your hands it’s worth visiting the historic town of Hermanus – one of South Africa’s prime whale watching bases – and detour to Cape Agulhas, the desolate southernmost point of Africa. In Hermanus, stop at Pear Tree Restaurant (peartree-hermanus.co.za) for local poke fish bowls and cracking berry-pavlova milkshakes.
Westwards of Mossel Bay, the Outeniqua and Tsitsikamma Mountains form the backdrop on one side and the Indian Ocean on the other, as the route passes historic towns, indigenous forest and idyllic seashore. The town of Wilderness wraps all these delights up in one package.
The Garden Route is a fantastic place to get active, offering plentiful opportunities for superb hiking, mountain biking, kayaking, surfing and sailing. Knysna is an excellent base for everything from a yacht outing to one of the region’s celebrated multiday hikes. It also has a great range of dining, from ocean-fresh fish and chips to quirkier options. VegTable (vegtable.co.za) dishes up four course tasting veggie menus starring innovative dishes such as Wild Mushroom Sliders.
While wildlife experiences are best found elsewhere in South Africa, a visit to Addo Elephant National Park offers a fix of wildlife’s Big Five before journey’s end at Port Elizabeth.
Must-eat Serendipity (serendipitywilderness.com) is acclaimed chef Lizelle Stolze’s gourmet experience, close to Wilderness National Park.
Must-stay Four star Hog Hollow Country Lodge (hog-hollow.com) is located only 18 kilometres (km) east of Plettenberg Bay. The elegant boutique hotel overlooks the Matjies River Gorge and the Tsitsikamma Mountains.