PAMPLONA TO OVIEDO

Take in the best of the Basque region and Asturias coasts, with medieval towns, spectacular beaches and one of the world’s most talked about cuisines

Pilgrims have for centuries sweated their way through northern Spain following the Camino de Santiago. Today, the region is as well known for its fabulous surfing, España Verde (Green Spain) scenery and for boasting one of Europe’s most dynamic food scenes.

The easily accessible town of Pamplona is not the most obvious starting point from looking at a map.

It’s known for its annual bull run though best avoided while its big party crowds are in town. But like all of this region, there’s always good food to be had, such as Michelin starred Rodero (restauranterodero.com), which dishes up artful Blue-lobster Lasagne and Grilled Pork Shoulder (Presa Ibérica) with a Turnip Salad. Pamplona is also the gateway to a swathe of medieval Basque towns including Puente la Reina and Estella where the Bodegas Irache (irache.com) vineyard has a fountain of both water and its own wine, refilled daily to refresh and revive weary pilgrims.

Heading north, the Basque coast ups the stakes. It may prove difficult to leave San Sebastián with its arc of golden sand, art nouveau architecture and famed cuisine. More than one pass is needed at bar hopping to try out as many pintxos as you can. Find super-fresh seafood and seasonal house specials in Gandarias (restaurantegandarias.com) and at the Sirimiri Atari Academy (sirimirigastroleku.com) where Asian inspired pan bao jostles for attention with steak tartare. The Chutney Gastrobar at Pedro Egaña Kalea 8 (Indian inspired pintxos, anyone?) can mark the start of your snacking but this is really follow-your-nose territory.

The nearby seaside village of Lekeitio, an hour west along the coast, is a good place to catch your breath before moving on to Bilbao. Aim for Mesón Arropain at Iñigo Artieta Etorbidea 5 for traditional Basque seafood dishes such as Grilled Hake. Reborn from its gritty port city roots, Bilbao now bursts with eye-catching modern wonders like Santiago Calatrava’s Zubizuri crossing of the Nervion River and the era defining Museo Guggenheim Bilbao. Dining options can feel infinite but Mina Restaurante (restaurantemina.es) – run by chef Álvaro Garrido – is a safe bet, delivering an often changing tasting menu that may feature Spicy Mussels, Aubergine Confit and Smoked Tuna.

Heading west into Cantabria, the landscape softens into rolling hills and a green coastline. Pause in Santander for a night or two and grab a surf or paddleboard lesson. Restaurant Cañadío (restaurantecanadio.com) is a wonderful spot for modern takes on Cantabrian classics like Stuffed Scallops. Move on to the contrasting day-trip towns of Santillana del Mar and Comillas – one a living museum of medieval buildings, the other heavily modernist influenced. Unspoilt sandy beaches are dotted along the coast – the Playas de Oyambre and Torimbia over the border in Asturias, are two of the most stunning. Both the Picos de Europa national park and less visited valleys to the east reward those who have the time to detour.

This itinerary ends in Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, with an old town that bustles by day and parties by night. A glass or two from buzzy cider bar Sidrería, followed by dinner will likely fire rather than quench your appetite to explore the region. Tierra Astur (tierra-astur.com) does great grilled lamb and beef, served alongside fizzing cider shots, cinematically poured from a great height. You could always continue, like the pilgrims, on to Santiago or even Cape Finisterre where Europe runs out into the magnificent Atlantic Ocean.

Must-eat Ribadesella’s beachside grill Güeyu Mar (gueyumar.es) is perfect for a lazy lunch.

Must-stay Parador de Corias (parador.es) in Cangas del Narcea is housed in a converted monastery in forested land.