COPENHAGEN TO SKAGEN
Viking history, kitesurfing, Baltic islands, the Lego House, breathtaking Nordic scenery and a starting point in one of the most food-forward culinary capitals of the world
From the sophisticated palate of the capital to the tapering spit of sand marking one of Europe’s geographical full stops, a journey across Denmark is a gentle yet immensely rewarding adventure. The country’s take on the New Nordic food scene attracts gourmands but Denmark is also one of Europe’s most underrated historical destinations. This is one road trip that doesn’t need a car as the country is easy to discover by train with plenty of bus options and fabulous bike routes (plus easy-to-hire cycles) in evidence in all major centres.
Copenhagen will of course demand your culinary attention whether you’re trying the excellent street food and local brews, hanging out with the cool kids in revamped dive bars in hip Vesterbro, or chasing a much coveted reservation at Mes (restaurant-mes.dk) or Alchemist (alchemist. dk) restaurants. Beyond this, the city’s many museums are among Denmark’s best while unusual urban attractions like the CopenHill ski slope, located on top of a power station, and the emerging new neighbourhood of Ørestad underline the city’s boldly innovative streak.
Before you start heading west, consider doubling back especially if you are here in the summer. Plotting a journey across Denmark means turning your back on Bornholm, one of its finest summer retreats. A detour by ferry, fast catamaran or short flight is well worth it if you have time. This peaceful island in the middle of the Baltic Sea is beloved by Danes for its sunny climate, unspoilt beaches and good eating at convivial beachside spots like Kadeau (kadeau.dk) in Aakirkeby and Lassens at the traditional seaside Stammershalle Badehotel (stammershalle-badehotel.dk).
Jutland – the part of Denmark popping out of northern Germany – forms the rest of this itinerary. Consider stopping to admire Viking and medieval history in Ribe, checking out the extraordinary amount of fun on offer at
Legoland and the nearby Lego House in Billund, and try a little windsurfing or kitesurfing on the breezy west coast of the country. Denmark’s unsung hero, second city Aarhus, has superb modern art at ARoS and the Moesgaard Museum where the Grauballe Man – a Dane preserved in mud almost 2,500 years ago – is waiting to be discovered. St. Pauls Apothek (stpaulsapothek.dk) offers an ever-changing menu of modern Scandinavian dishes paired with expertly executed cocktails.
Take some time to discover the regenerated waterfront of fun, post-industrial Aalborg – try the fresh-baked bread and macaroons at Penny Lane (pennylanecafe.dk) – before finishing in Skagen at Denmark’s northern tip. The sense of peace and light found in this town – a kind of forerunner of the hygge cosiness vibe that can be found across the country – has long attracted artists who have left a legacy of beautiful work interpreting scenery and life along the coast. The food alone is worth the trip: fresh catch of the day served up boatside day and night in the town’s quayside and Ruth’s Gourmet (ruths-hotel.dk) where chef Jack Cramer delivers a locally sourced Nordic tasting menu that makes great use of the local natural larder – think Turbot with Lobster and Rabbit.
Must-eat Delicious Danish smørrebrød (open top) sandwiches? Local beer and organic wine by the glass? A Michelin star? You bet. Selma (selmacopenhagen.dk) in Copenhagen is unmissable for dishes such as Beetroot-Rosehip Herring with Pearl Onion, Crème Fraîche and Buckwheat, and Fried Scallops with Lemon Cream. Must-stay Offering boutique style, a five minute walk from Tivoli Gardens, the world’s second-oldest amusement park dating back to 1843, the Andersen Hotel (andersen-hotel.dk) is a good Copenhagen base. Socialise with other guests in the lobby lounge with ‘wine hour’ running daily from 5 p.m.