CORK TO DONEGAL
Discover some of Western Europe’s greatest surf-and-turf treasures while exploring the best of what the Emerald Isle has to offer as you travel the coast-hugging Wild Atlantic Way
This incredible 2,414 km route along the southwest and western edges of Ireland weaves from Cork to Donegal via some of Europe’s finest coastal scenery. Along the Wild Atlantic Way are cliffs towering above the foaming ocean, perfect strands of sandy beaches and an endless succession of picture perfect coastal villages. This is a route to take on with an appetite: green fields and fresh Atlantic waters give up a feast of seafood and organic beef, cheese and vegetables, best washed down with a creamy Guinness or a brew from Ireland’s fast developing craft beer scene. Most choose to tackle the route bottom to top, to keep on the ocean side of the road when driving. The roads can be slow going in places – so rather than rushing it in one go, break it into a few sections.
The most popular part of the Wild Atlantic Way starts in Cork city, home to the wrought iron riot of fine food that is the English Market and its Farmgate Café (farmgatecork.ie) whose local produce inspired dishes are legendary. Linger over a lunch of Duck Rillettes with Arbutus Sourdough or daily specials of meat and fish choices, fresh from the market.
From here, the route follows the coastlines of the southwestern counties of Cork and Kerry. Dramatic roads thread their way along peninsulas with views of offshore islands including the Star Wars-like Skellig Michael. The region’s most famous drives – the rings of Kerry, Dingle and Beara – may throng with crowds in the summer but there are ample detours, bike rides and hikes suited to all levels – Wild Atlantic Way (wildatlanticway.com) is the best place to start for routes – offering enough solitude in which to take in the views in peace. In the evenings, feast on crab and prawns landed a few metres from where you’re staying. QCs Seafood Restaurant (qc.ie) in Cahersiveen, Kerry, serves up statement seafood landed fresh that day by the family run fleet.
Coming next is County Clare and arguably the section of the Wild Atlantic Way to savour most with a parade of world-famous sights along a relatively compact stretch. Here you’ll find the Burren’s unique lunar landscape and Neolithic tombs, the towering Cliffs of Moher and good surfing around Lahinch. It’s also a great place to indulge your sweet tooth on an artisan factory tour at Wilde Irish Chocolates (wildeirishchocolates.com) on the shores of Lough Derg.
The city of Galway, the next pit stop, has a justified reputation for pub ceilidhs, live music and fabulous dining. Big-name chefs like JP McMahon of Aniar (aniarrestaurant.ie) have made Galway their base, and while Galway Bay oysters grab the headlines, local vegetables, dairy, meat and foraged delicacies are all put to revolutionary use here, too. At Enda McEvoy’s Loam (loamgalway.com), try the local charcuterie, which includes the likes of Connemara air-dried lamb and housecured lardo. On the tasting menu, dishes may include Cauliflower, Verbena and Bone Marrow, Monkfish, Broccoli and Little Gem, and Lamb, Turnip and Mint. The cheese selection is also well worth exploring.
The crowds thin out the further north you go but in Mayo, Sligo and Donegal the sense of space and discovery is, for many, the best saved for last. The landscapes are more rugged, beaches more windswept and the immersion is total – seaweed here can be bathed in, not just smelt and eaten. An Port Mor (anportmor. com) in Westport, Mayo, is one of several stand out eating locations – Frankie Mallon’s Clew Bay Crab Claws in Garlic Butter draws a long queue.
Wherever you are, don’t underestimate how many detours there are all along the way, from seafront farmers’ markets to ancient monuments.
Must-eat Galway Food Tours (galwayfoodtours.com) offers daytime and evening culinary walks and whisky tours. Sample everything from Galway Bay sushi to cheeses and fresh-fruit tarts.
Must-stay Coopershill (coopershill.com) a luxury stately house retreat in Sligo, makes a superb start or finish point on the route. Expect open fires, incredible cooking and large, bright bedrooms.