TOFINO, CANADA

Go for immersion in far-flung nature, bustling coastal restaurants and Pacific surf and turf

On the west coast of Vancouver Island, the tiny town of Tofino is making big waves. Once an isolated fishing village, then a hippie commune, it’s now become something of a destination, thanks, in part, to its buzzing food scene. In spite of a miniscule population of 2,500, the town has its own brewery, distillery and access to some of the best surf and turf around.

Nature dominates in this part of British Columbia – from the ancient rainforests in the Pacific Rim National Park to the hot springs and 16km expanse of Long Beach, where you can watch storms roll in. It’s no surprise that at-oneness with the earth impacts all aspects of culture and cuisine: old cedar infuses local gin, stout is made with sustainably harvested kelp, cocktails are garnished with sea asparagus. Tidal foraging aside, there are forests full of chanterelles, Pacific salmon and wild game ready for curing.

The wildlife – black bears, grey whales, bald eagles – is, of course, a draw, but it’s the culinary movement that is creating new opportunities. Earlier this year, young BC-born chef Clayton Fontaine stepped into his new role as executive chef at The Pointe, Wikaninnish Inn, and is behind the bison tartare, confit halibut, plum and goat Gouda panna cotta. Over at the newest Hotel Zed, the tradition of Oyster Thursdays became fast-embedded at its restaurant Roar, as did local delicacies like West Coast clam chowder and the long-bone ribeye cooked over coals. Once wildly regarded as a surfers’ paradise, Tonfino now presents as a paradise for anyone who loves their food as much as the wilds.