Sunday Times (Sri Lanka)

New numbers in town

- By Devanshi Mody

When I arrived last summer, Colombo was athrob though it seemed that Sri Lanka’s then vaunted “booming economy” seemed a veneer. Neverthele­ss, Colombo today is in boutique boom. Recently-launched boutique hotels and boutique cafés ensure Colombo isn’t eating humble pie just yet. Colombo Courtyard price of Rs 950. But quail’s eggs cost and portions are copious. I much prefer beetroot, apple and feta salad. Sounds banal? It’s all about the proportion­s. And young chef Tyrone who clearly understand­s food advises, “Ensure you get a mint leaf with every bite.” This salad leaves me in consternat­ion. Tyrone smiles, “Surprised at such a young chef?” He is but twenty. Then again, experience confirms that the skinniest chefs are the most skilled!

“Shandwiche­s” the menu announces. It’s unclear whether this is a typo or a feat of great innovation. COLT (cheddar, onion, lettuce, tomato) “shandwich” becomes a CLT- it arrives sans onion. Worrying when tagged at Rs 580.

Coffee is Hansa (charged at Italian coffee prices), which Commons too serves but in mightier, jazzier concoction­s.

Smoothies (try Tropical with fresh mango, banana and beads of crunchy passion), neverthele­ss, deliver. Desserts, less so. I found little joy in carrot cake. Wine improves with age. Cake doesn’t. Cheesecake requires an axe to cleave. Perhaps incentive to purchase some of the knives selling as “antiques” for startling prices? I almost choked on my salad when informed an English dinner set was going at Rs 25,000. Apparently, the English owner’s grandmothe­r’s.

And yet, SW salads wow. Je ne raconte pas de salads, as the French would say! Java

 ??  ?? Rezani and Soundarie
Roshan Gunathilla­ke and Nelum
Colombo Courtyard: The slimest-crusted pizzas on a good day
Shazna. Pix by Mangala
Weeraseker­a
Rezani and Soundarie Roshan Gunathilla­ke and Nelum Colombo Courtyard: The slimest-crusted pizzas on a good day Shazna. Pix by Mangala Weeraseker­a
 ??  ?? about coffee Java:educating Colombo
about coffee Java:educating Colombo

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