Now that the beach is back, CUBR is the place to be
“The beach is back!” As soon as the pumping and gushing of sand over the exposed rocks at Unawatuna was finished, these words buzzed around Sri Lanka, and Unawatuna was back in business.
Once acclaimed as one of the 10 best beaches in the world by a US television programme, the cove at Unawatuna became famous because of the sand quality (the beach was kept clean by residents), the sea (perfect for safe, spontaneous swimming year round), the friendliness of its residents (no beach boy hustling), its narrow lanes with cute shops and homestay guesthouses, and its afterbeach partying.
That changed when a breakwater was constructed that interfered with tidal patterns and the waves sucked away the sand that won the beach its fame. Now the sand has returned, thanks to a major operation that involved dredging sand from the ocean bed and pumping it back into the bay.
Travellers discovered Unawatuna in the 1970s and locals threw open their doors to welcome them. Beach shacks sprang up serving fresh seafood; there was great swimming and sun bathing all day and parties every night. Tourists and locals were blissfully happy. The focus was a small hotel that grew a little bit each year, becoming what today is known as the Calamander Unawatuna Beach Resort (CUBR).
Now that the beach is back, CUBR is back too. Following a much-needed injection of capital involving the complete refurbishment of the hotel’s 83 rooms and public areas, and the installation of a sand strip beach garden for sunbathers, the hotel retains the exuberance of a beach holiday resort with the latest in guest room refinements.
Fifty-three of the guestrooms are classed as “Deluxe.” Mine, number 222, was along a narrow corridor, reminiscent of the days when the hotel was much smaller. The room was compact but nevertheless had the latest gadgetry including flat screen television, safe operated by credit card, a rain shower, a glass fronted mini-fridge, crisp airconditioning and a sliver of a balcony. The large bed was seductively comfortable, and gaily decorated with flowers thereby creating an impression of caring for guests. Some rooms also have a sofa bed.
At this hotel, guests are not just paying for a room; it’s the full beach holiday experience. The hotel is now owned by a Singapore based property and investment company run by Roman Scott, whose mother is Sri Lankan and father Scottish. Roman and his sister Paloma (who now runs the hotel) have transformed it into what has become one of Sri Lanka’s best value-for-money seaside resorts.
The main swimming pool is still under reconstruction but instead the hotel now has Sri Lanka’s first and Asia’s longest (25m) glass fronted lap pool. This is at one side of the beach garden in a coconut grove, with the beach and the glimmering sea at the other side. It is close to one of the funkiest bars in Sri Lanka, floored with railway sleepers and with walls adorned with posters of famous stars of the past.
The beachfront restaurant features a huge wine chiller with the wine list as a poster on the side of it, so it’s easy to select something that’s good value without bothering about the small print. There is a different theme buffet every evening (Seafood BBQ, Grill, Italian, Chinese, Sri Lankan, Mediterranean & International), at Rs. 2,500 per person. The a la carte menu has well-presented seafood dishes, and there is a very popular pizzeria as part of the restaurant.
There is a positive Mediterranean vibe about Calamander UBR. Perhaps it’s from the bright colours (orange is predominant) against shining white, the sun-lit blue of the pool and the ocean, the huge weather-proofsettees for couples, the cheerful ambience, and the feeling of being where it’s all happening.
And now the beach is back. There are sun loungers on the sand where stewards pop out from the bar to serve drinks and snacks; beach vendors pause politely but don’t harass guests; and there is that marvellous camaraderie of sharing the joy of being on holiday at an affordable, fun place.
Room rates change according to the time of year, and there are special last minute deals available through the hotel’s website that bring a deluxe room for two, with breakfast, to around US$100 a night.
Unawatuna Beach Resort, Unawatuna; tel: 091 4384545; www. unawatunabeachresort.com