When a resplendent chariot of faith kindles devotion
History says that one Puvaneya Vaaku (‘The one with his victorious shoulders’ in Tamil ), a minister to the first Aryachakrawarthi King of JaffnaKalinga Magha first erected a Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil way back in the 13th century. Sapumal Kumaraya also known as Chempaha Perumal who ruled the Jaffna Kingdom as an agent of the Kotte monarch is believed to have expanded the kovil in the 15th century. In 1620 when the Portuguese warrior Philip de Oliveira plundered Jaffna, the kovil was reduced to rubble. It was only in 1734 under Dutch occupation that a shroff at the Dutch Kachcheri, Don Juan Ragunatha Maapana Mudliyar the 1st influenced the colonial masters to let him ‘resurrect’ the kovil. A property was brought by ‘Don Juan’ close to his home, (which still remains the ancestral home of his descendants) and a thatched roofed mud hut erected to deposit the Vel, the revered symbol of Lord Murugan.
Since its Spartan reconstruction, Nallur Kovil had seen it all including great work of artistry, an iron-willed female custodian who ‘ran the show behind the curtain’ mentoring her sons and grandsons as future custodians and a ravaging civil war through which the sacred grounds became an oasis.
“Being a liberal man my grandfather, the 8th Custodian, introduced the system of archanai pooja offered to anyone at one rupee ensuring equality and affordability,” explains Shayan. Hence there is no space for ‘ VIP treatment’, ‘caste discrimination’ or any commercial ventures on the sacred grounds, he adds.
The temple works on a system of ‘checks and balances’ and assures impeccable time management and discipline. Earning a reputation for his ‘simplicity’ and managing the kovil during the most turbulent periods, the present custodian, Kumaradas Maapaana Mudliyar ensured that the festivities of the Mahotsvvam were carried out even at the peak of the conflict, yet on a much subdued scale. He is also credited for fortifying the kovil and making it the largest Hindu kovil complex in the country.
It is also a labour of love, devotion and a lifetime commitment by those who are born to serve the grounds touched by the grace of gods and supported by ardent devotees. For both the Hindu and the non-Hindu, there is reverence and ample space for inspiration in the ritual. Nallur Kovil with its golden-pillar supported inner halls, four gopurams, six bell towers and the sacred pond in the inner precincts is watched over by Lord Murugan whose grace is not confined to the magnificent shrine but living in the hearts of the rich, poor, young and the old….
Dilantha Upul’s first solo exhibition is on today at the Lionel Wendt Gallery. The young artist whose forte is portraits has titled his exhibition ‘Frozen Wings’. It is open till 7 p.m.