Coriander as India’s national herb
If there's one herb that I cannot live without, it's coriander. I use it to garnish dhals, vegetables, and my favourite chutney is made by blending the herb with tomatoes, green chillies, garlic and salt.
Now one of India's most popular chefs has started a petition to get the humble leaves designated "India's national herb".
Chef Ranveer Brar says coriander - called dhaniya or kothmir in India, and cilantro in the US - is "the superstar of our kitchen".
"No Indian dish is complete without coriander. No other herb comes close to it in versatility," he told me.
"Coriander," he says, "is a herb that you either love or hate. It has peppery and floral notes that make it so unique. It's a complicated bouquet of notes such as lime zest, pepper and celery."
Chef Brar says coriander flavours can be very different depending on when it's used in the cooking - for instance, whether it's sauteed in the pan at the beginning or added at the end. But what makes it truly special, he adds, is that it's a "root-to-fruit" plant.
"Every part of it is used in cooking. The leaves are used for garnishing curries and dals, they are added to breads and meat dishes, its stems and roots are used in soups and stews and its fruit or seeds are used as a popular spice."
Chef Brar first suggested "giving the humble dhaniya its due" a few months back when he put up a post on Instagram, saying let's start a petition to designate it as the national herb.
The post created "a lot of interesting conversations", with many asking where they could sign it, so he started a petition on change.org on Thursday. Addressed to the ministry of food processing industries, the petition has already gathered more than 5,500 signatures.
"This herb is packed with flavours. It can spice up any dish you are making. From Kashmir to Kanyakumari, every Indian loves coriander," he added.
According to the Encyclopaedia of Food Sciences and Nutrition, coriander was known as far back as 5000BC and is mentioned in the Bible. It was used by the Romans and Greeks to treat disorders of the digestive, respiratory and urinary systems, and the Chinese, Indians and Europeans have all cultivated it for thousands of years. Today, it's grown and used extensively across Europe, the Mediterranean, north Africa, the Americas, China and Bangladesh.
Besides its use for taste and flavouring, another reason behind the growing popularity of the herb is the major health benefits it offers.
Years ago, while on assignment in a Delhi slum, I heard a gynaecologist advising pregnant women from the poorest families to include "cheaply available dhaniya" in their daily diet for its high iron content, essential for the healthy growth of the foetus.
Research also shows that the plant seeds have anti-inflammatory properties and could help those suffering with arthritis.