A little-known Bawa gem in Bentota
Geoffrey Bawa needs no introduction.
Among Bawa’s iconic creations are the Sri Lanka Parliament, the Ruhunu University, Kandalama and Lighthouse Hotels, not to mention the early landmark beach hotels in Bentota and Ahungalle. Many have been extensively written about but there remain a few little-known gems too. One such is the Club Villa at Bentota.
To reach the Villa, one needs to go over the famous bridge at Bentota and drive a mile or so towards Induruwa on the Galle Road. A right turn before the railway crossing lets you into a narrow lane flanked by guest houses and homestays for tourists before it ends at The Club Villa to the left. The quaint entrance to the villa is spruced-up not by grandeur but with leafy foliage over concrete, hiding the inscrutability of the lovely L shaped building opening out to a green vista bordering the Indian Ocean. The setting is typical of Bawa.
The minute you are through the shady semi-darkness of the entrance, you are greeted by great beams of sunlight sweeping through the structures. Shallow ponds, in which colourful carp chase one another, are lit only by the perforating rays of sun, reflecting abstracting shadows on the white walls of the receiving hall. It is then that the striking green of rolling lawns come into your view as if by some magical wonder. ‘What a warm invitation to a resort’ you ponder, as you amble through period furniture and artistic images to the enchanting garden.
The southern railway line splits the garden of Club Villa from the inviting sea and strangely there is no fence. Beyond the railway line the untouched coastal vegetation takes over -- a long stretch preserved from the Bentota bridge to the rail gate beyond, making it a priceless reservation covering a sizeable area. From the railway line, one could saunter to the shore beneath an arbor of false-pineapple, inhaling its wild sweet loneliness of saltwithered foliage brought about by strong sea-winds. A train would chug along once in a way to break the calm. The sunsets are always panoramic when the western sky assumes scarlet, and many guests stroll on the isolated beach before sundowners reach their hands. Most prefer to sit out under the great canopy till the moon is up, weather permitting.
Bawa’s quest for his creations to blend perfectly with mother nature is evident in the 17-room Club Villa as well. Whilst his taste for structures rests heavily on island’s historical heritage, may it be the king’s time or the colonial era – his landscaping mirrors the natural outlook of the particular zone. As such the topmost canopy of the garden is native ‘moodilla’ (Beach Barringtonia). The giant old trees have large square-shaped fruits dangling and also let their large distinctive flowers fall now and again on the immaculately maintained turf. Moodilla flowers and the white frangipanni; an essential element in Bawa’s landscaping technique dot the sprawling lawns.
It is no secret that Bawa’s vernacular brand of architecture makes one’s mind instantly stress-free. The settings are mellow. His handpicked furniture are period and are not known to clutter the room in which you are housed. The walls are adorned with paintings which don’t muddle a mind seeking tranquility. As such, the ambiance only makes one feel at home.
Needless to say, the manner in which fresh air freely passes through his structures and the way he allows eyes to enjoy unlimited space filled in some green or the other manifesting vital lifelines. He also wishes that his clients tread on dated stones as in ancient monasteries or on cut and polished cement floors and then look out from blue windows at his frangipanni canopy.
For the guests staying at Club Villa, the Bawa estate Lunuganga and Bawa manor house ‘The Brief Garden’ are only a stone’s throw away. They are remarkable museum pieces. Both visits are recommended for the keen Bawa follower. Lunuganga reminded me of a garden I had once visited in Bergamo in Northern Italy.
Though Geoffrey Bawa passed away nearly 20 years ago, he has left a legacy for many local and foreign tourists, students of architecture and folks hungry for refined taste in décor and landscaping, to marvel at his creations and enjoy the marked serenity on offer. They know what a meditation it is. Club Villa is only a tiny part of it, but it remains a gem, respected and cared for in no uncertain terms by its new Japanese owner and his dedicated staff.