Waffles FOR BREAKFAST and beyond

Awell-made waffle is a glorious thing. Crisp and golden on the outside, steaming and tender within, its pockets hold a mix of melting butter and maple syrup that’s decadently released when you bite down.

Yet, for all their charms, I never used to make waffles very often, maybe once a year on a special occasion.

Part of the reason was my waffle iron. Mine was a castoff from my parents that they had received as a wedding gift, then discarded when they cleaned out their kitchen. Made of chrome and cast iron, it was hefty and solid but a pain to exhume from the cabinet and cumbersome to clean.

When it died, I replaced it with a spiffy stainless-steel model. The new one was lighter and convenient to pull out of the cabinet. It cooked the waffles more evenly and quickly. And because it was non-stick, I could just wipe it clean.

As sad as I was to see my parents’ retro chrome number go, I made waffles a lot more often without it. And because I was making waffles every few months instead of once a year, I could play around with several recipes.

My go-to recipe is a buttery, yeasted number with a delightful sour tang that goes well with any sweet topping (syrup, jam, fruit compote). You can make the batter the night before and let it rise in the refrigerator for breakfast, or get up early and let it rise at room temperature in time for brunch.

When I don’t plan ahead, I make waffles that rely on beaten egg whites rather than yeast for their fluffiness. In this version, I use cornmeal for added crunch. These are perfectly fine served with maple syrup or honey dripped on top. But for something more opulent, maple syrup simmered with caramelised bananas, pecans and bourbon — like bananas Foster on a waffle — puts them over the top.

I wouldn’t have thought to make savoury waffles if I hadn’t tasted the Solomon Gundy waffle from M. Wells Steakhouse in Long Island City, Queens, US. At the restaurant, they make potato blini batter, cook it in a waffle iron, and slather it with smelt fillets, crème fraîche and trout roe. My version uses a simpler potato batter and substitutes smoked trout fillets for the smelt. It makes a savoury brunch or unexpected supper. Or cut the waffles and serve them as an appetiser at a fancy dinner party.

Once you get in the habit of making waffles, you’ll look for every opportunity.