Bangkok Post

WINE ME DINE ME

- Jarupat Buranastid­porn

Enjoy gourmet French fare sprinkled with Michelin stars at Savelberg.

THE SET-UP

The current trend of importing internatio­nal chefs to Bangkok is proving to be a big hit. Foodies here are surely thankful that they no longer have to travel to Singapore or Hong Kong for a taste of the Michelin star experience. Henk Savelberg, the Dutch superstar chef, has chosen an interestin­g (if not convenient) location for his restaurant – right next to the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherland­s where multi-coloured EU cows can be seen grazing on the front lawn. If that doesn’t make him feel at home, we don’t know what will. Opting for light grey tablecloth­s, modern hanging lights and large window panes, Savelberg offers a sense of casual comfort that is neither intimidati­ng nor uptight. Regular diners include guests from the hotel, expats and high rollers whose list of favourite things include caviar and imported chicken.

THE MENU

The Lunch menu (B1,800++) is a three-course set and what you’ll get is completely up to the chef. Fear not, as this isn’t a case where Chef Henk takes one look at what you’re wearing to decide whether you deserve a plate of foie gras or not. The choices depend on which products are in season and their availabili­ty. So thank the Buddha, when Guru last visited, it was lobster season. The Lobster salad, served lukewarm with a side of lobster cream, is complement­ed by a light and citrusy dressing that left our taste buds wanting more. Turbot was chosen as the main course, which may be considered feared territory for some Bangkokian­s simply for the fact that it looks and tastes nothing like salmon or tuna. So it was rather refreshing to see this flatfish being treated like the star of the show. The fish is grilled to perfection while the wild mushroom sauce adds an earthy opulence, much like how a miso sauce enhances grilled black cod. Before moving on to dessert, Strained yogurt was served as a palate cleanser. It is creamy, luxurious and topped with red fruit crushed ice that is spiked with spices – a perfect invitation to the final course. The simply named Citrus is presented like a piece of delicious art. The lemon mousse, posset and meringue’s contrastin­g textures bring delight and wonder into the picture, while the white chocolate and lemon sorbet balance out the sour and sweet. If you’re looking for a complete culinary adventure, opt for the Savelberg experience (B4,900++, additional B2,940 for wine pairing) which is a seven-course meal that features the restaurant’s unmissable dishes.

INSIDER TIP

Unlike many franchise institutio­ns, Henk Savelberg is the actual owner and head chef here. Henk, who has been awarded four Michelin stars, clearly devotes his energy and passion into this restaurant as he can be seen greeting diners most days of the week.

SOCIAL MEDIA MOMENTS

The presentati­on of each dish not only confirms the restaurant’s ambition to perch atop the throne of French cuisine in Bangkok, but is also worthy of your Instagram, Facebook and Twitter feeds.

VALUE & VERDICT

Savelberg delights guests with its five-star service and a fantastic menu that embraces both tradition and modernity. Although prices are relatively higher than other French restaurant­s in the area, it is more than justified with unique and mouthwater­ing dishes that boast fresh and seasonal ingredient­s. The fact that there’s nothing on the menu that’s drowning in dollops of butter is also a huge bonus.

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Citrus
Turbot
Lobster salad Citrus Turbot
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