Royal wonder of Prachuap Khiri Khan
The spectacular province is known for its three beautiful bays, but also boasts the historic Phraya Nakhon Cave
Prachuap Khiri Khan is dubbed the “City of Three Bays” since on its eastern shores are the glorious bays of Ao Noi, Ao Prachuap and Ao Manao. One of the province’s must-sees is Phraya Nakhon Cave. Inside the cave stands a spectacular gold and blue pavilion visited by three kings, which is regarded as the province’s symbol. The cave is in Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, bordering Kui Buri and Sam Roi Yot districts, about 300km from Bangkok.
Getting to Phraya Nakhon Cave is not too difficult, though the warning signs in the area say the walk is only suitable for people with moderate to high levels of fitness. To get there, you must start your journey at Ban Bang Pu in Sam Roi Yot district. From there, you can either take a boat to Laem Sala Beach and walk up to the cave or hike up two steep inclines for 530m from Ban Bang Pu to Laem Sala Beach, and then it’s 430m more to the cave.
If you choose the second option, it will take you about half-an-hour or more to reach the beach. The journey is tiring, but the stunning panoramic view of the Gulf of Thailand is worth the effort.
After strolling past the beach, walk westwards to the forested mountain. You first see the 1m-wide and 4m-deep brick-walled Phraya Nakhon Well. It was built during the reign of King Rama I (1782-1809) on the orders of Phraya Nakhon Si Thammarat, ruler of Nakhon Si Thammarat, who had to seek shelter for several days in the area during a storm when on his way to Bangkok by boat. He discovered Phraya Nakhon Cave which was later named after him.
Walking the trail en-route to Phraya Nakhon Cave, you will see various kinds of trees. If you are lucky, you may spot khang waen, or dusky langur monkeys, on treetops around the limestone mountain. This gradual sloping pathway is partly made of loose stones, so the elderly and children should be careful. Wear sturdy walking shoes, stay on the trail and ensure your return to the beach by 5pm.
The 430m distance sounds trivial, but I found the walk difficult. After an hour or more of sweating and mounting fatigue, you will feel much better when encountering the soft breeze emanating from the cave. Stepping into the cave and looking up, you will see sinkholes with a natural stone bridge called the “Bridge of Death”. Wild animals apparently fall to their deaths trying to cross the bridge.
Inside the cave, there are three caverns with many stalactites and stalagmites. The most beautiful cavern boasts the Khuha Kharuehat pavilion built on the orders of King Rama V. If you go there from 10.30-11am, you will enjoy the stunning view of the pavilion as sunlight falls through a hole in the cave. On the northern wall of the cave are inscriptions by King Rama V and King Rama VII.
Inside the cave, you will be able to see stalagmites, stalactites, poisonous plants and bizarre-shaped rocks, including one which resembles a crocodile. Visitors are advised to walk carefully in order to protect the fragile rock formations from damage. Visitors should also refrain from touching stalagmites and stalactites, dropping litter and smoking.
One day walking through the forest and enduring a climb or two to reach Phraya Nakhon Cave is exhausting yet fulfilling, especially when you spot a rare dusky langur or see the splendid Khuha Kharuehat pavilion.