Bangkok Post

Century of quality chronograp­hs

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The expertise of Breitling has long-included crafting sophistica­ted timers, whose first wrist chronograp­h appeared in 1915.

The brand hails its founder, Leon Breitling, as inventing the modern chronograp­h, which went on to include an independen­t chronograp­h pushpiece, followed by separating the stop/start function from that of resetting and creating a second independen­t reset pushpiece.

After a century, the Swiss watchmaker reinforces its heritage with 2015 models designed for sky-high and underwater operations, with performanc­es of the chronograp­hs certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronomete­r Testing Institute).

The black-clad Superocean Chronograp­h M2000 has been bestowed the title of Dark Knight of the Ocean, while the retro Chronoline­r is described as an authentic flight captain’s watch, and the Colt Chronograp­h Automatic a born-for-action timepiece.

Breitling’s associatio­n with aviation began in the 1930s when its on-board chronograp­hs were placed in cockpits, including those of fighter planes. Its chronograp­hs then became standard equipment on propeller-driven planes and jet airliners due to the boom in commercial aviation in the 1950s and 60s.

Inspired by a mid-20th century model, t he Chronoline­r features a chronomete­r-certified chronograp­h to measure flight times, with its performanc­es displayed on counters at 12, 9 and 6 o’clock.

The second time zone is easily readable due to a red-tipped hand and a rotating bezel with a graduated 24-hour scale equipped with a precise ratcheted system.

A scratch-resistant black ceramic bezel is perhaps the most distinctiv­e feature, with a star-shaped cut-out to enable handling while white ceramic numerals ensures optimal contrast. Likewise, the white luminescen­t hour marker and hands stand out against the dial’s black background.

The oversized 46mm model is presented in a steel case, whose back bears stylised planes as Breitling’s signature and a tribute to aviation.

Initially designed for the armed forces, Colt debuted in the 1980s. Its sturdiness, functional­ity and readabilit­y appealed to a broader audience, with the Colt becoming the most accessible Breitling product as well as a sporty model associated with the Red Bull Air Race, in which the brand’s team pilot Nigel Lamb is the reigning champion.

Similar to the Chronoline­r, the self-winding Colt Chronograp­h comes with functional counters positioned at 12, 9 and 6 o’clock.

With satin-brushed finishes and engraved hour-markers, the broad unidirecti­onal rotating bezel is distinguis­hed by four “rider tabs” — a signature Breitling feature — ensuring excellent handling and optimal protection of the glare-proof sapphire crystal.

The 44mm watch comes in three variations, differing in the black, blue or silver dial. The design combines a fine circular raised motif and luminescen­t oversized hands and hour-markers, to give dimension to the face.

Featuring a large screw-locked crown with protective reinforcem­ents, Colt Chronograp­h’s steel case is water-resistant to 200m. Superocean Chronograp­h M2000 however can outdo that by plunging 10 times deeper into an abyss.

Breitling is also a developer of instrument­s for profession­al divers, with the Superocean claimed as the ultimate diver’s watch capable of operations at 2,000m.

Previously in a polished steel case, the sporty timepiece is bolder in black, achieved by a high-resistance carbon-based treatment.

Available in 250 pieces, the 46mm blacksteel version is equipped with a patented magnetic pushpiece system that enables the chronograp­h controls to be handled via the metal of the case, making this model functional in the deep water.

Equipped with a built-in decompress­ion valve to vent helium, the sturdy case is fitted with 4mm-thick glareproof sapphire crystal for a clear view of the dial, whose luminescen­t oversized hands and hour-markers ensures readabilit­y.

The movement however is a thermo-compensate­d SuperQuart­z, chronomete­r -certified by the COSC, to offer a degree of precision ten times higher than that of ordinary quartz.

 ??  ?? The retro Chronoline­r with the caseback bearing stylised planes.
The retro Chronoline­r with the caseback bearing stylised planes.
 ??  ?? Superocean Chronograp­h M2000 Blacksteel.
Superocean Chronograp­h M2000 Blacksteel.
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? Colt Chronograp­h Automatic.
Colt Chronograp­h Automatic.

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